We have now arrived in Bodø, the second biggest city of Northern Norway. A lot to digest in less than seven weeks since we left Ireland. Time for some kind of celebration on 67° North.
The small fishing village Sør Arnøy looks a bit run down and abandoned but on the contrary has a fully equipped and automated self service grocery shop, which you can access by using your credit card for authorisation. Once close to the shelves, a comprehensive selection of groceries is at your fingertips. Even alcohol is available, which needs an additional proof of age via fingerprint at the time of payment and check-out. I got some “golden” bananas. Not bad!
Today’s passage was rather uneventful and relaxed, mostly under drizzling rain presenting fascinating shades of gray.
The rain stopped just at the time the after-work-walk was about to start. Good timing as the Irish would say.
We were up for the second officially marked hike on the island of Bolga, which includes cutting through the Bolgtinden mountain through a tunnel cave. On the slippery grounds the hike became a climb but we made it up to the cave at the crossing‘s top. As the downhill on the other side looked even more challenging, we decided to return same way. Puppies on training!
While strolling around we realised again the diversity of this little island and its archipelago. It would not be any hardship for us to stay longer…
We have left Holandsfjorden in the morning just to stop after 15nm at the island-pearl of Bolga.
Although the sun does not set anymore at our current latitude, we most likely won’t see it for the rest of the week – series of rain days are forecasted.
When I spotted a two hour window during the day without drizzle, I grabbed the chance to get up to Bolgtinden, the island’s landmark. An interesting hike, easy and demanding alternating going hand in hand. Finally, crawling over the ridge on the last stretch was not for me, so I missed the summit while still getting granted with some spectacular views. Slippery when wet! Know your limit.
Some people say, Helgeland is as nice as Lofoten but less touristy. We shall find out over the next few month.
The rain stopped and allowed for a short walk to visit the Brestua at the foot of the Engabrevatnet, which offers unspoiled views over the lake and the glacier.
As per the weather forecast, the day started with a mystical overcasted sky, which turned blue in the afternoon.
After only 15nm into the Holandsfjorden we arrived in Engen Brygge, at the foot of Engebreen, which forms part of the Svartisen Glacier.
It was time left for clearing the boat, followed by lunch and a short mini-nap before setting off to explore this glacier and its connecting lake. Standing at the glacier‘s tongue felt impressive and irritating at the same time.
Glacier water for a special cup of tea.
Impressive in terms of what mother earth has given to us and a bit irritating with reference to the global warming discussions.
It was a hard hike for me and I am glad that tomorrow is a rain & rest day.
It was another 🌤️ day taking us further north along the inner water ways of Helgeland. Today‘s major highlight was without doubts the crossing of the Arctic Circle Monument situated on Vikingen Island at 66° 32’ N.
6am we are up for the early morning tea. The sun is already very well above the horizon, a bit puzzling. 12°C in the boat, heater and generator get switched on although we think, it’s not that cold, give the sun another hour or so. However, at 7:30am we throw the lines and Susan disappears in her floating office, for the day, just getting out when the stomach cries for it! Here and there a quick view to check the scenery and if the captain has got everything under control. 😅
We passed the Seven Sisters mountain range today, each of them hiding behind its veil.
Music wise we are getting a bit one sided. It’s either Grieg’s Peer Gynt or Aha’s playlist but both putting our current scenery into a mystic and well echoed frame. Suddenly Trolls 🧌 everywhere! The journey through this endless archipelago leaves a good impression of Norway‘s vast coastline.