The polar night season has started for Svolvær and shall last pretty much four weeks (only) until 5th January. Winter solstice, the darkest day of the year, shall be on 21st December @ 16:03, the time when our loitering question, “how dark is dark in Lofoten during polar nights”, will finally be answered.
We are very positive to live through this period of time without grumbling or sights of depression. To me, Fridtjof Nansen’s thoughts, more than 130 years ago and perhaps not less relevant in today’s world, are putting it in some mindful context:
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Fridtjof Nansen, Farthest North, July 11, 1894:
At last the southerly wind has returned, so there is an end of drifting south for the present.
Now I am almost longing for the polar night, for the everlasting wonderland of the stars with the spectral northern lights, and the moon sailing through the profound silence. It is like a dream, like a glimpse into the realms of fantasy. There are no forms, no cumbrous reality—only a vision woven of silver and violet ether, rising up from earth and floating out into infinity…But this eternal day, with its oppressive actuality, interests me no longer—does not entice me out of my lair. Life is one incessant hurrying from one task to another; everything must be done and nothing neglected, day after day, week after week; and the working day is long, seldom ending till far over midnight. But through it all runs the same sensation of longing and emptiness, which must not be noted. Ah, but at times there is no holding it aloof, and the hands sink down without will or strength—so weary, so unutterably weary.
Ah! Life’s peace is said to be found by holy men in the desert. Here, indeed, there is desert enough; but peace—of that I know nothing. I suppose it is the holiness that is lacking.
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Life will go on in Lofoten, so will the tourism. The North Cape Line, one of the Signature Lines operated by Hurtigrouten regularly stops in Svolvær keeping tour operators busy all year. So done today on the 1st Polar Night and the 2nd Sunday of Advent. Listening to some locals, the best time of the year has started…
We are looking anxiously ahead towards the next 4 weeks.
Fair winds…
