SY Hullu Poro

Boating & Biking Adventures

E to W Atlantic Crossing – Logblog 1

…waning moon over stern…
It is 3:30am in the morning of our third night on this Atlantic Crossing from East to West. We left Mindelo a day later than planned mainly due to the late arrival of Susan’s luggage and influence by the slogan of the Cabo Verdeans: No Stress! As a matter of fact, it does not matter and the extra day took some time pressure out of the To-Do-List and made it a pretty relaxed departure. After a yummy pizza at our favourite restaurant Colombinho and with a thourough farewell from Petra, Jan and Tobi with the exchange of a few last minutes gifts, we did throw the lines at 9:30am. SY Sutje left 24h after us and are now on our toes, approx. 150nm astern.
 
A last minute comment on the blog came in from Jani, which I managed to put online before leaving but did not find the time for a reply. Really appreciated the farewell wishes from a next generation fellow sailor. Thank you! We hope you keep enjoying following our adventure and find the time yourself to make it out onto the ocean.
 
Since then we have sailed 407nm in pretty pleasant conditions apart from three hours motoring through the dead wind zone south of Santo Antao. 1680nm to go before we reach our waypoint set at the southern tip of Martinique. In other words, approximately 20% completion rate.
 
It was one more time the crew and not the lady, who had to cope with the conditions at start of the passage. We managed to keep the boat moving before and after taking rest. Apetite was low and we forced ourselves to drink enough to stay hydrated. Susan had a cold – 90% over now – I had my usual headache caused by some back tension for 16 hours and since yesterday, the world with its ocean is shiny again – for me. Susan needs another 24 hours but later today, it will be fine. The fun part shall start. 2100nm to sail is a distance which puts things into perspective, which contributed to our longer run-in period, which is normally 24 to 36h at maximum. Finally it is also a very emontional journey and I wonder how we look at it once we have reached the mountains top and the downhill part of the passage starts.
 
I have not done any weather checks as the trade winds are the trade winds and the window for 10 days look ahead showed perfect and stable trade winds for our course at the time we departed. 15 to 25kn from NE slightly increasing towards the end of the 10 days. During my daily evening calls on the Marine Band Radio with Chief Jan from SY Sutje, I scrounged the latest updates, which confirmed the forecast.
 
Today, we shall get a bit less wind and from tomorrow onwards it should be in the 20+kn range. In fact we are down to 10 to 13kn only now and I am focused keeping the boat moving at 4kn reducing the banging to a bare minimum. Susan needs good sleep!
 
Seaweed in the SailGen and the Hydrovane kept us busy for an hour yesterday and broke our good old boathook, both pieces rescued. It is known, that on the latitudes we are sailing some extended fields of seawead are common. We did not face an extended field but enought to clog our two systems. It was easy to remove the grass from the SailGen propeller but the Hydrovane made it a bit more challenging as the rudder goes very deep into the water. Lying down on the after deck, while trying to strive it off with the boathook, I bruised the rips a bit. Nothing serious but will need some embrocating with DOC Morris for a while. Glad I got some of the stuff left from Erika. A broken boathook was the donation for this learning. It got stuck between the leading edge of the rudder the the hull mounting while trying to strive the grass off the rudder. Did not work. Hook consumed. Next. Furl in the sails to get the speed out of the boat. Disengage the windpilot and run under electric autopilot. Give a hard turn on the windpilot rudder into both directions to get maximum twist and the stuff came off. It will happen again but now we are better prepared and need a new boathook.
 
Two smaller birds accompanied us for a while yesterday. It happend before but new was, that they came as a couple and landed on the water. What a similes.
 
Fair winds…

…see you again Mindelo…

⛵️…ready to move on…🙋‍♀️🙋‍♂️

We are ready to move on. After last bits and pieces from the ship chandlery, the lady prepared as good as possible and a nice dinner at our favourite restaurant, we will throw the lines tomorrow, 14th December 2022 @ 9am local time.

We had magnificent two weeks here in Cabo Verde, a colourful country with hard working people in good climate.

I am now looking forward to cross the Atlantic together with Susan.

Fair winds…

Preparation & Party

After we completed some more tasks on the To-Do-List during the day while exploring the town we also had a very nice farewell dinner together with some fellow sailors from SY Sutje and SY Zuri. We had given up the luggage for the day but spotted it finally at the security guard. Fair winds…

👍…Susan’s arrival…😘

Checking in 40kg of luggage Susan made it to São Vicente’s Cesária Évora Airport in time but tired and without the luggage, which still sits in Lisbon. I believe, it is more a physical arrival and the mental will take a bit more time. For the luggage, we need a speedy delivery now to stick to our plans. Cross fingers!

We have a few more items on the To-Do-List before heading off. The trade winds are back in time and further stabilising over the last few days after a period of disturbances through some strong low pressure systems in the northern Atlantic moving to lower latitudes than ususal.

My final 🚴‍♂️ ride for the year 2022 was to welcome Susan at the airport and make sure the arrangements for the taxi back to the marina are in place. 2023 will be interesting in terms of biking!

I look forward to some quality time together and a pleasant unforgettable passage towards the Caribbean Sea. 

Fair winds…

Cabo Verde – No Stress

Our days in Cabo Verde are slowly coming to an end. With the arrival of Susan the focus will go even more towards throwing the lines and moving on – crossing the Atlantic.

Although I only got a very limited impression on these Atlantic Islands, it has become very clear, that they are not only different again but also inviting to stay longer.

Well, we intend to maximise the time spend in the Caribbean and perhaps get another chance to return back here one day.

While working on the boat over the last couple of days, I have to admit, that the Cape Verdeans’ slogan “No Stress” has become part of my routine in no time. Luckily I had only small jobs on the To-Do-List and this left time for siesta and hanging around absorbing the spirit and culture of this nation.

There was time to hang out in some of the local bars with live music together with fellow sailors. Live music is very popular here. Eight out of ten bars have live music every night and the locals seem to enjoy this scene even more than the tourists.

SY Sutje & SY Zuri

Fishing and tourism are the main contributors to the GDP across the archipelago and it becomes visible next to the fish market. The market hall itself seems to be too small so that the fish is cut anywhere near to it.

Overall, Mindelo is a buzzing town with good infrastructure, reasonable supplies and services, honest and hardworking people with their heart closer to Europe (mainly Portugal)  than to Africa, and last but not least, respectful, reserved and friendly. My very subjective view and please be aware that this is for Mindelo and not Cabo Verde in general.

Fair winds…

…Moonrise over Mindelo…

Mindelo offers not only spectacular sunsets but also nice moonrises emerging from Mount Verde overlooking the city. 👍

Mindelo – Evening Ride 🚴‍♂️

After a long Siesta it got me back into the saddle for a short evening ride. On my list was a luxury property development in a valley close to Mindelo. Before getting there, I was stopped by a security guard at the barrier towards a private property. I believe the development failed or at least it looked all a bit dreary and abondened.

On the way back I passed by the City Beach.

Fair winds & good night.

Another sunset in Mindelo

🚴‍♂️ Bikepacking – Santo Antão

Back home after 85km hardcore 🚴‍♂️ in pure nature!

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