Today’s agenda is short:
- Sleep long & take it easy.
- Boat project – heat pumps.
- Prepare for the winter.
- Maximise air time.
- Enjoy & digest.
Crazy Lofoten, insane.
Looping Wookiefoot…♫ Happy to be here ♫…
Fair winds…
There is not a much better way than letting another gale pass through while sitting in a cosy pub. Well, the pub here on Skrovøya is called HeimBrygga and the peak of the gale at 9pm was perfectly matching the start of the farewell jam session attributed to the Conroy brothers. Irish Folk(s).
I knew about the strong Norwegian-Celtic relationship between Shetland and Bergen area got intensified during WWII but learned now, that the baseline was set already 1000 years ago, at the time of the Vikings.
Nice evening, nice walk home along some illuminated photo artwork, nice gale.
Fair winds…
We left Skrova Fyr behind with the already second daily ferry to Svolvær sailing at around 8:35am for another unpaid and unsupported bike ride. The weather forecast did not leave me with another option. There is less traffic but still tourists around.
It was a long ride along the E10 until we turned right onto the Brennaveien leading to our final destination. There is interesting history around these fishing farmers and their life in remote places, not without constraints.
Today, over 30 people live in Brenna with many children while Lille Festvåg got finally abandoned around 1955.
Fair winds…
Skrova Island is also know as Photographers Island and it’s not only because it offers plenty of good photo opportunities but also due to the SOPS initiative – Skrova Outdoor Photography Spot. I discover more and more during my daily island walks but also chatting with locals allows me to understand life on Skrova Island a bit better.
Another near gale going through tonight, gusting 35kn only.
Fair winds…
Skrova Island seems to have its own micro climate. Only 5nm off the Lofoten mountain ridge and even more exposed to the sea. It is hard to find consistent and conclusive information on the net about this but officially Skrova Island claims to be the place accumulating least rain and most sunshine hours over the year within the whole Lofoten Archiplago.
Today´s observation, while strolling around, might support this marketing kind of attraction and it can be illustrated in the photos above, taken in a promptly manner. I will keep monitoring.
There are many other aspects to be considered while evaluating the best winter spot for us and The Lady and my assessment continues.
On the downside, windspeeds seems to be around minimum 5kn higher at Skrova Island compared to Svolvær with respect to the prevailing wind directions. Protection against swell in a specific location, moored to a wall or a ponton, power & water supply available throughout the winter, are just a few more criteria besides social aspects, mobility and cost, etc. to be considered. Once locked in, it will be hard to adjust at days without daylight (polar nights), at temperatures we are not used to and potentially one storm chasing the next without waves in the Vestfjord taking a break.
I think we are almost there.
Fair winds…
We are settling in at Skrova Island for a while to take a break from the past busy months and sort out a few things. Nevertheless, after the gale has passed through, I took the ferry today into Svolvær and the two photos reflect that we are between summer and autumn. Burning sunshine and refreshing drizzle going hand in hand.
We are tied up to the wall. Johan, running this place in the third generation, showed us how to properly fix the lines in order to compensate for the 2.5m tide level going up and down and still have peace of mind.
We got some interesting neighbours. There is this Norwegian legendary Whitbread Racer Berge Viking (a SWAN 57), which came in late with Skipper Martin, who same time runs the Oljetanken next door on this island. What a beautiful lady. Goosebumps.
My stern-side neighbours Anna and Patrick live their dream and purchased an old traditional fishing vessel, which was already restored by the previous owner to allow a live-aboard-life. I got the chance to look at it and sit in front of the wood fired stove. Own ideas are getting implemented. Big project in its 2nd year. Still leaving time to go fishing and share some delicous fish cakes.
Then I bumped into Knud, a legend of information and very nice person. Living in the old Icehouse, which used to store the baits for the fishermen…
Getting to much. Good night.
Fair winds…
I decided to leave the Trollfjord for later and head back to Skrova Island. Also Ulvågen stays on the list.
Before throwing the lines in Digermulen, I bumbed into Geir Halvard Nilssen, fisherman. I am glad my engine was not running already as our chat got longer and longer. He showed me the documentary done by the NDR Team he took out: Abenteuer Lofoten: Norwegens Insel – Juwel (see below, 6:48 and 30:12). What a coincident and nice gentleman.
The final encouragement to pass through the Øyhellsundet on my way back came from Geir. There is a very narrow and shallow area, well marked though, through this scenic sund. It turned out easier than it looked on the Navionics chart under the given weather conditions. Once passed the final buoy, there was a good breeze and sailing back to Skrova Island became a pure pleasure.
The terminology for The Weather in this part of the world is used to describe any conditions except a sunny summer day. Talking to locals they are all sure, more of The Weather will slowly come in. We will let some of The Weather pass through over the next couple of days. Including some solid rain. It will be an office day.
We also came here for The Weather, not just the summer.
The view during the approach into Skrovøya becomes already quite familiar by now but I am not sure I like to play with the ferry all the time. In any case we are now safely lined up to a pretty new wooden sheet pile wall.
Fair winds…
It looks like summer has come to an end and the low pressure systems marching along the Norwegian westcoast are getting back into play.
We are currently blessed with some 35kn gusts of wind here in the fjord. Significant wave height in the Vestfjorden is forecasted to 3.3m later the week. It is an either or situation. Either I leave tomorrow back to Svolvær/Skrova or I have to stay at least for a week in the fjord. Rain will be inclusive. I will decide tomorrow.
My first ride on Hinnøya today. It is not only the biggest island of the Lofoten Archipelago but also the biggest island in Norway, if you exlcude Svalbard.
The ride was colourful as was the sky. The landscape very divers. Hardly any traffic. Wildlife, only birds. Last ride in bib shorts, I guess.
The bike is packed and stored away for a couple of days.
Fair winds…
I was lucky and got a free spot suitable to berth The Lady at Digermulen next to the ferry terminal. There are not many. As the timing worked well for a short ride on Storemolla and I was keen to explore Ulvågen, I grabbed the bike. Ulvågen has a pontoon for visitors as well but I was not sure on the depth.
Komoot promised me some paved roads but it turned out to be all gravel, hard and solid but dusty gravel!
Deeply impressed by the natural beauty and its people granted a living in the same, I returned after 10km only but left with a pulsating head.
Out of 6 locals permanently living in Ulvågan, I have spoken to every second. First was the angler at his boat, who came after me later on his bike to let me know, that the depth at the visitor pontoon is 3.8m. He measured for me.
Thank you! Great. We can go there, if we get another chance and have the guts.
Second, the local elderly man cutting his lawn with his new Gardena tool and telling me, that there was more fish in the area years back and last but not least the local lady, married to a fishermen having two decent sized fishing trawlers. If I had not to catch a return ferry, I would probably still be there chatting.
I feel mentaly exhausted.
Fair winds…
It became another hot summer day and I decided to move back to Skrova Island. I do not only prefer the quite and charming island over buzzling Svolvær but also wanted to get into the pool position for my potential plans for the coming week, Trollfjorden.
Svolvær is only a 30min ferry ride away and I have already greeted the Captain today, while giving the ferry courtesy right of way on the final approach into the harbour.
Weather forecasts provide initial indications, that the summer might come to an end soon.
Fair winds…
