It was time to officially welcome the Christmas Season on the last Sunday in November. While Skrova and Kabelvåg had their turn earlier during the day, it was 5pm for the ceremony in Svolvær. Nicely supported by a local choir and band, people were showing respect to the huge fir tree through circling around it. The focus clearly lies on the tradition rather than the commerce.
Fair winds…
Four gales have now passed through at intervals of approximately twelve hours. Longer and shorter ones, with more or less intensitiy. Our special attention was on gales #2 and #4.
The first one had a forecasted max 4.7m swell into the harbour entry and we were not sure, how much of that will end up at our pontoon. So far, we have seen around 2m of swell which did not impress The Lady too much.
The latter and final gale #4 promised a 180° change in wind direction with forecasted gusts up to 80kn and a temperature drop of 6°C, all happening within less than one hour. It did, back from rain to snow.
Trusty locals told us “you will be all right” and we were.
Our spidernetwork of fifteen mooring lines for defence distributed the moderate swell fairly even onto five cleats. Six out of the fifteen lines got extra dampers at the more sensitive points. The wind gusts was not too much of a concern as our position is well protected towards all wind directions. Nevertheless, we took the snow cover down as a precaution and for peace of mind.
Finally, at the fade-out of this four days’ movie the barometric pressure jumped up 4-5mbar per hour over four hours. Relief, it was time for a Gin & Tonic.
After the storm is, as we know, before the storm but we are even more confident to be at the right spot for our Four-Season Lofoten Adventure at a time where flights and ferries get cancelled and even Hurtigruten takes adjustments to its regular schedule.
Fair winds…
The terms with Bua Vågan are on a 7 days period with a condition, that you cannot borrow the same type of equipment immediately again. This will not only ensure that everybody has access to all kind of sports but perhaps also get people to try new activities, e.g. ice skating, sledge, snowboard, downhill skiing, fishing, etc. to name a few for which they can support.
The upcoming weather was already indicated through the clouds building up along my quick ride to Kåbelvag.
It will be interesting.
Fair winds…
With the sun at max 1° above the horizon now, it is hard to call it sunrise or sunset as both have melted together over the official 3.25h only lenght of the daylight.
There was a low band without clouds at the horizon where the sun managed to throw in plenty of arrays making it an impressive light show.
Our first sunset, dipping into the sea at a bearing of 173°, not even getting beyond South. Impressive.
Fair winds…
Although the cross country skiing network connects Kabelvåg and Svolvær, my preferrence was a quick bike ride to Kabelvåg over a short walk in Svolvær to get to one of the main starting points of the prepared XC track. Same time I was keen to visit the ski hut operated by Kabelvåg locals to check it’s open or still closed.
By the time now, I have figured out how best to attach ski and poles to the bike to minimize impact on riding comfort and efficency. Some more optimization work needed to reduce the time spent getting overall ready in order not to get cold before setting off.
I got on the track and enjoyed a first glide on a perfectly prepared track, which suits both styles, classic and skating. While initially a lot of my attention was needed to stay on the track, it was not possible to hover through this winterized landscape without recognizing its shear unspoiled beauty.
Having been around here many times by now, in summer and autumn, winter comes as a novum to me. Magical, thanks to the current conditions.
I could not resist a hot chocolate and a traditional Norwegian waffle with brown cheese and strawberry jam next to the fireplace. Hard to get back on the track afterwards but the daylight helps to keep the schedule. Did not plan for lights.
We hear that the amount of snow received at this time of the year is unusual. Asking locals, if it will stay, the answer is pretty unisono: maybe, maybe not.
All we know is, that a weather change will happen next week towards warmer tempertaures but if the precipitation will be rain or snow…we will find out.
Fair winds…
After I picked up my new Snowline Pro Spikes in town, we headed out into the country for a snowshoe walk, our first ever. Reaching the track, spikes got replaced with the snowshoes.
The sun of the solar noon is now sitting at max 2° above the horizon providing an overall lenght of the day at around 3.5 hours. Not much but by all means good enough to check the beauty of Lofoten from an additional angle.
No disappointment. Time well spent.
Tons of pixels under Komoot.
Fair winds…
It was time to pick up some ski equipment as it keeps snowing at minus degrees and cross country tracks are getting prepared. While Susan took the bus oneway to Kabelvåg and walked back, I preferred the bike; not being the only crazy biker out there!
Bua Vågan allowed us to borrow snow shoes and a full set of cross country skiing equipment, which puts my ambition, “Bike to Ski”, in close reach.
We got home before the sunset, happy and excited with the booty we made.
Although the vision of the “Barn-Unge-Aktivitet“ (Children-Youth-Activity) foundation focuses on slighly younger generation, there was more than enough equipment available to keep best-age-generation active as well. Piles of all sorts of winter shoes above 43 size…
If it keeps snowing, we might need the snow shoes for grocery shopping soon.
The next days will be interesting…
Fair winds…
Winter-Wonder-Land developed further over the last few days with temperatures down to -4° celsius. Continuous snow removal with heavy machninery is ongoing taking the once crystal white feathers out of town dumping it somewhere nearby into the sea. Roads remain compacted, icy and slippery. Majority of pavements the same.
Solar noon was at 11:46am today with the sun reaching its maximum of 3° above the horizon, still providing significant daylight, I think.
Today’s average low biking speed of 9.7 km/h is caused by some snow stops paired with plenty of photo stops. Total duration of the trip was just below 2 hours gross in relation to the recoreded net moving time of 1:11 hours. It can be a challenge to keep feet and fingers warm under these conditions. Training ongoing.
The reward comes with another Lofoten-Light-Show. Southerly directions dominated by a low band of very heavy dark clouds while the northerner sky shows illuminated milky clouds with blue patches. Impressive contrast.
All pain forgotten! More snow expected.
Fair winds…
It was our first Polar Low passing through, which entertained us the rest of the week. A weather phenomenon also know as the Arctic Hurricane, interesting & fascinating, new to us. Unlike hurricanes, they do not get named and have a much shorter lifespan. Nevertheless, they have a brutal aspect in its erratic behaviour. Finally it passed Lofoten with some distance but clearly demonstrated its impact in a manner comfortable to us newbies. A good start into the winter.
Despite the fact, that winter is officially still more than a month away, we feel, that our third season in the Lofoten is in full swing with the arrival of this Polar Low during the week.
Biking was not advisable under these conditions but we took the opportunity for walks within the surrounding area. Although the sun is now only getting up to a maximum of 3° above the horizon, it has not lost any power to put the scenery into a remarkable perspective, during the 4 hours daylight left.
Fair winds…
We were gifted with more large snow flakes late last evening adding another 10cm of snow to the solid baselayer from the previous day. The old slushy snow has become solid ice as the temperature dropped just below freezing.
I was keen to go for another test and familiarisation ride to understand limits, technically, physically, mentally. There is a cycle track from Svolvær to neighbouring village Kabelvåg along the E10, which gets cleared by the community services.
The Conti Spike 240 gave no reason for concerns, even on glazy ice it provides very good grip. It does hardly clog up under dominated snow and allows not only steeper uphill sections but also out of the saddle sprints without slippage or loosing traction. Obviously there is a limit to all but in this case the limit on the tyre sits in hitting grooves in the direction of rolling. It becomes a riks if they are unvisible and/or unexpected. While the tyre rolls fast, there is a slightest imbalance, which needs to be worked on.
Vintervann, pure luxury, no hardship. The best comes at the end. Bike wash with warm water next to the boat, same time unfreezing my hands…even a shower would be in reach! One at a time, we still got the sauna/gym subscriptions.
Not trusting the weather forecast blindly, more snow can be expected.
Fair winds…
Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Norén
