The groomed cross-country ski trails of Svolvær and Kabelvåg have got an accumulated length of 17km and consist of five individual tracks but all being interconnected with each other.
Today was the last stretch, which I had not done yet. It clearly suits me best, not only being the closest point of entry but also coincides well with my skill level.
A bit more fresh snow would be nice but we also appreciate what we already got this very early into the skiing season.
From Atlas Mountains in Morocco last year to Atlas Montane in Norway this year. Pure coincidence but the model of my new snowshoes, called Atlas Montane, got field tested today. From bikepacking to snowshoeing.
We went back to Nedre Svolværvatnet, an area we have explored before and which seems to offer good terrain for this kind of activity. A German guided group on snowshoes crossed our way.
I hope and sense there will be many more opportunities in utilising this new gear by getting out into this amazing landscape over the next few month.
Susan’s set has now also arrived and is up for another field test.
Today’s starting point for the XC-skiing was the Skistation in Kabelvåg. I picked the skiing equipment up on my way at the nearby BUA, opening at 12pm, just after sunrise. Days are still short.
I was gifted with a one hour loop on the groomed cross-country ski trail through frozen plains. The recorded 40m in elevation change (only!) included some stretches by far too steep for my skill level. Two fall downs plus one intentional forced stop not to end up in the bush. A long way to go! Still, good fun but also hard work.
Inspired by a like-minded, skis on the backpack.
Too adventures for Susan, who went for a nice walk instead.
A short “night” ride was on my list for long and a typical Norwegian event pushed me back into the saddle. Same time I could improve my own resilience against temperatures below freezing. Still a bit to go but improving. The locals have a different DNA on this aspect. Pure fun for the kids! Impressive.
Since yesterday we have passed the period of the Polar Nights in Svolvær and the sun starts to creep above the horizon again. Time to get out, if there is no weather under Norwegian terminology, meaning blue sky.
Our snowshoes are ordered and under delivery but in the meantime we took advantage of the excelent service from BUA Vagån in Kabelvåg.
It was a longer hike on a comparable much longer day! To be precise:
Sunrise
Sunset
Length of day:
Difference from yesterday:
Solar noon at
We are now moving fast on the length of the days and look forward to spend more quality time out in the backcountry of Svolvær and its surroundings.
The ongoing freezing temperatures keep shaping the winter scenery with lakes starting to build some ice formations. Sweetwater “vatnets”, as expected, ahead of the saltwater fjords.
While the X-country skiing tracks are prepared the works on the downhill skiing lift area are still underway, expected to open soon.
We will be out exploring this winter wonderland further going forward.
A memorable start into New Year 2026. Live screenshot taken from nearby webcam this morning.
After quite some time since our return from Tromsø, we are slowly getting out of hibernation mode. The Polar Nights will end soon and the Civil Twightlight duration will not only increase quickly but also allow the sun to show up again.
These days are hard to record. From me fighting a nasty cold, endless pouring torrential rain, hurricane graded storm, thousands of cod fish standing next to our boat, to the return of snow, etc.. Intensity and speed of change make it difficult to believe it’s real. Dark versa bright moments. An arctic glimpse.
10am, on another day. Hard to comprehend.
A snapshot from yr.no paired with a one off hurrican-grade gust out of nothing straight onto the beam, trying to turn The Lady upside-down, will hopefully remain a once in a lifetime experience. Gooseskin granted even days after the event, where sliding full mugs become negligible compared to a near miss burning candle. Meassured 39.1m/s of wind gust at the nearby Svolvær Airport sets a clear mark. 1500 households on the Lofoten temporarily without power, planes, ferries, busses, all cancelled, bridges closed, Hurtigruten seeking for shelter.
We were lucky, though still puzzeled.
We had to complete our two-years-walk, starting with the official fireworks at 7pm in 2025 and ending around lunch time in 2026 under icy blue skies with northern winds trying in vain to get the last bit of warmth out of us. We did not party all night…
We took a week off and jumped on the Coastal Express running Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen since 1893 to get to Tromsø. While the voyage itself was exciting, we are still puzzeled from the many impressions gathered from this fascinating city and its surroundings. The blue skies framed it nicely for us.
Snapshot taken from yr.no providing comprehensive weather data for Norway and above.
The polar night season has started for Svolvær and shall last pretty much four weeks (only) until 5th January. Winter solstice, the darkest day of the year, shall be on 21st December @ 16:03, the time when our loitering question, “how dark is dark in Lofoten during polar nights”, will finally be answered.
We are very positive to live through this period of time without grumbling or sights of depression. To me, Fridtjof Nansen’s thoughts, more than 130 years ago and perhaps not less relevant in today’s world, are putting it in some mindful context:
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Fridtjof Nansen, Farthest North, July 11, 1894:
At last the southerly wind has returned, so there is an end of drifting south for the present.
Now I am almost longing for the polar night, for the everlasting wonderland of the stars with the spectral northern lights, and the moon sailing through the profound silence. It is like a dream, like a glimpse into the realms of fantasy. There are no forms, no cumbrous reality—only a vision woven of silver and violet ether, rising up from earth and floating out into infinity…But this eternal day, with its oppressive actuality, interests me no longer—does not entice me out of my lair. Life is one incessant hurrying from one task to another; everything must be done and nothing neglected, day after day, week after week; and the working day is long, seldom ending till far over midnight. But through it all runs the same sensation of longing and emptiness, which must not be noted. Ah, but at times there is no holding it aloof, and the hands sink down without will or strength—so weary, so unutterably weary.
Ah! Life’s peace is said to be found by holy men in the desert. Here, indeed, there is desert enough; but peace—of that I know nothing. I suppose it is the holiness that is lacking.
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Life will go on in Lofoten, so will the tourism. The North Cape Line, one of the Signature Lines operated by Hurtigrouten regularly stops in Svolvær keeping tour operators busy all year. So done today on the 1st Polar Night and the 2nd Sunday of Advent. Listening to some locals, the best time of the year has started…
We are eagerly looking ahead towards the next 4 weeks.
Kabelvåg from a different perspective under the moon around noon time.
The day has come. Today was the last bike ride under the sun in 2025 unless we move to lower latitudes. The all day moon over the snow scattered Lofoten mountains was more impressive than the hiding leftovers of the sun.
Nevertheless, I deeply breathed in the last 33 minutes of daylight of the year. The dopamine produced under these biking conditions is a bit scary. Pure joy.
We will now be moving from dawn to dusk with the long nights in between.