This part of Sri Lanka should have the “less rainy season” from January to April, at least that was the base of my planning and got confirmed by Mandrahe, the owner of the Funk Bunk Hostel. Climate has always changed. 🤔
It was pouring at 6am and I turned around after checking the weather forecast. It should clear later in the morning. It did to the contrary…🌧️…and I only learned that after having left.
Mountain Biker Mandrahe is right. After 30 minutes in the rain it doesn‘t matter anymore.
The final weather forecast for today prompted me for another day in Kandy and I am glad it did. Totally impressed by the Royal Botanical Garden and its entrance fee for foreigners, I also enjoyed the privat educational session in the Ceylon Tea Museum. Both venues are highly recommended.
Returning back to the hostel became my first ride in Sri Lanka under wet conditions, not pouring but drizzling and enough to increase the chaos on the roads as expected.
The majority of the rain shall be over by tomorrow morning but asking the locals, who knows?!? I shall give it another try. Still wiggling a bit between train and tarmac.
Funk Bunk is a great hostel not only because it’s owner is a Mountain Biker.
It was nice strolling around through Kandy, one of the eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka.
On the central market I enjoyed a lesson and tasting session on some of the 29 banana varieties indigenous to the country. The price variation is at 100% among the different types!
There is plenty to do in and around Kandy and it seems to be a hotspot for backpackers. I might move on though tomorrow, depending on the weather.
I was at 6am at the monks office to receive final blessings and say good-bye. Heading for the city of Kandy, which is not only a world heritage city under the UNESCO but also my first stage destination. With the altitude and cloud coverage both increasing, temperature slowly starts to drop.
Mr. Mangala insisted on a farewell photo, which now forms part of his very extensive guestbook and photo library. We are happy to be part of both.
Living alone makes him living for his guests and the level of warmth and attention was outstanding. Thank you!
A short ride took us back to the Silver Temple to absorb more of the Buddhist culture. Vijitha and Mama are taking care of me based on the approval granted by the chief monk for my overnight stay.
Enjoying the sunset from the top of the temple cave was one of the highlights of the day. It is an area under development and the chief monk joined us during this evening ceremony. It offers a 360° circular view.
A unique experience in a place of pure serenity! More than 2000 years old.
Today is a planned rest day. Breakfast at 9:30am. Initially I wanted to set off at 6am for a visit to a nearby Buddha temple in walking distance but the combination out of heat, exercise and gravity did not support me on that. I slept 11 hours and just made it in time for the breakfast!
I took up Mr. Mangala’s offer to organise a tuktuk for me to explore the Silver Temple, 16km out of Kurunegala town. Could be done on the bike but, a rest day shall be a rest day.
I did not get disappointed. This temple (actually 27 temples all together) dates back to the days before Christi, is embedded in and around a huge rock formation and developed over the eight kingdoms of the Sinhalese monarchy. What an incredible heritage.
Over a cup of herbal tea and ginger cookies, I met the chief monk and he invited me to stay in one of their guest units, which I happily confirmed immediately and without a second thought. Slight change in travel plans but shall be interesting. Go with the flow and see how destiny plays out. 🤔
On the way back, I got my hair cut at 500LKR before the monks get onto it. 😂
I got on the road at 7am this morning and was greeted by the first clock tower not even 30 minutes after that. Left overs from the Brits. Well maintained and ticking precisely on Greenwich Mean Time, but showing the 5.5hours time difference.
Leaving this early means biking before breakfast, which is a perfect regime to start the day and escape from some of the heat. Not considering water, my first intake was a handpicked banana at one of the numerous stalls along the roads, cut out from a trunk. There are so many stalls offering all you need. After 40km plus I passed one of the “Family Friendly” restaurants and I added a cup of tea alongside with the most universal dish you can get: omelette!😋 Made to your own specification. Custom made so to say. 350LKR. Including the tea.
We have started our approach towards the mountains. The pedalling itself today was split and took us partly through some nice backroads presenting palm trees and paddy fields. It was quiet and the tarmac felt untouched.
Finally I got on the way around 8am and left Colombo without much traffic on a Sunday morning. The ride was all about the sea, to be precise: The Indian Ocean. Especially Negombo is a vibrant fishing village, seven days a week. Each and every family must somehow be associated with the sea. The northern outskirts along the beach have developed into gentle tourism.
The coastal road even further north has become one of my favourite stretches since 2019, when I cycled it first time.
Amazing place to live and the relaxed and friendly locals seem to be perfectly aware of it. No dreaming, hardship in paradise!
It became a very pleasant brain-wash-ride today while exploring some more areas of the city of Colombo. Pretty green and divers including the holy cows on the road.
There is an active biking scene in this country and today I met one of its absolute nerds – Hinni. His shop running out of his home is museum same time. Hard to find. The gear he got is top notch. Interesting combo.
Today’s maiden ride took us out of Colombo town along the railway track, which is heading in southern direction. Setting off at around 9am, heat & humidity had already kicked in without grace period. It generally adds around 15 to 20 bpm to my heartbeat, steadily increasing over the time of the ride – my observation. Water and speed are the two primary controlling factors.