Boating & Biking Adventures

Author: Bernd Page 6 of 119

…settling in…

On the return from Svolvær back to Skrovøya at 5pm. Lofoten Archipelago towards to the west.

We are settling in at Skrova Island for a while to take a break from the past busy months and sort out a few things. Nevertheless, after the gale has passed through, I took the ferry today into Svolvær and the two photos reflect that we are between summer and autumn. Burning sunshine and refreshing drizzle going hand in hand.

Leaving Skrova Island on the ferry at 3pm..

We are tied up to the wall. Johan, running this place in the third generation, showed us how to properly fix the lines in order to compensate for the 2.5m tide level going up and down and still have peace of mind.

We got some interesting neighbours. There is this Norwegian legendary Whitbread Racer Berge Viking (a SWAN 57), which came in late with Skipper Martin, who same time runs the Oljetanken next door on this island. What a beautiful lady. Goosebumps.

8th in 1981-82 Whitbread Race.

My stern-side neighbours Anna and Patrick live their dream and purchased an old traditional fishing vessel, which was already restored by the previous owner to allow a live-aboard-life. I got the chance to look at it and sit in front of the wood fired stove. Own ideas are getting implemented. Big project in its 2nd year. Still leaving time to go fishing and share some delicous fish cakes.

Then I bumped into Knud, a legend of information and very nice person. Living in the old Icehouse, which used to store the baits for the fishermen…

Getting to much. Good night.

Fair winds…

Real fresh fish cakes, charcoal grilled.

Øyhellsundet

I decided to leave the Trollfjord for later and head back to Skrova Island. Also Ulvågen stays on the list.

Before throwing the lines in Digermulen, I bumbed into Geir Halvard Nilssen, fisherman. I am glad my engine was not running already as our chat got longer and longer. He showed me the documentary done by the NDR Team he took out: Abenteuer Lofoten:  Norwegens Insel – Juwel (see below, 6:48 and 30:12). What a coincident and nice gentleman.

The final encouragement to pass through the Øyhellsundet on my way back came from Geir. There is a very narrow and shallow area, well marked though, through this scenic sund. It turned out easier than it looked on the Navionics chart under the given weather conditions. Once passed the final buoy, there was a good breeze and sailing back to Skrova Island became a pure pleasure.

The terminology for The Weather in this part of the world is used to describe any conditions except a sunny summer day. Talking to locals they are all sure, more of The Weather will slowly come in. We will let some of The Weather pass through over the next couple of days. Including some solid rain. It will be an office day.

We also came here for The Weather, not just the summer.

The view during the approach into Skrovøya becomes already quite familiar by now but I am not sure I like to play with the ferry all the time. In any case we are now safely lined up to a pretty new wooden sheet pile wall.

Fair winds…

Familiar approach into Skrova Island.

The wind is back

It looks like summer has come to an end and the low pressure systems marching along the Norwegian westcoast are  getting back into play.

We are currently blessed with some 35kn gusts of wind here in the fjord. Significant wave height in the Vestfjorden is forecasted to 3.3m later the week. It is an either or situation. Either I leave tomorrow back to Svolvær/Skrova or I have to stay at least for a week in the fjord. Rain will be inclusive. I will decide tomorrow.

My first ride on Hinnøya today. It is not only the biggest island of the Lofoten Archipelago but also the biggest island in Norway, if you exlcude Svalbard.

The ride was colourful as was the sky. The landscape very divers. Hardly any traffic. Wildlife, only birds. Last ride in bib shorts, I guess.

The bike is packed and stored away for a couple of days.

Fair winds…

Digermulen on the way…

I was lucky and got a free spot suitable to berth The Lady at Digermulen next to the ferry terminal. There are not many. As the timing worked well for a short ride on Storemolla and I was keen to explore Ulvågen, I grabbed the bike. Ulvågen has a pontoon for visitors as well but I was not sure on the depth.

Komoot promised me some paved roads but it turned out to be all gravel, hard and solid but dusty gravel!

Deeply impressed by the natural beauty and its people granted a living in the same, I returned after 10km only but left with a pulsating head.

Out of 6 locals permanently living in Ulvågan, I have spoken to every second. First was the angler at his boat, who came after me later on his bike to let me know, that the depth at the visitor pontoon is 3.8m. He measured for me.

Bikers paradise!

Thank you! Great. We can go there, if we get another chance and have the guts.

Second, the local elderly man cutting his lawn with his new Gardena tool and telling me, that there was more fish in the area years back and last but not least the local lady, married to a fishermen having two decent sized fishing trawlers. If I had not to catch a return ferry, I would probably still be there chatting.

I feel mentaly exhausted.

Fair winds…

Back to Skrovøya

Passage under light winds...
Enjoying the scenery...
On the final approach...

It became another hot summer day and I decided to move back to Skrova Island. I do not only prefer the quite and charming island over buzzling Svolvær but also wanted to get into the pool position for my potential plans for the coming week, Trollfjorden.

Svolvær is only a 30min ferry ride away and I have already greeted the Captain today, while giving the ferry courtesy right of way on the final approach into the harbour.

Weather forecasts provide initial indications, that the summer might come to an end soon.

Fair winds…

Skrova houses on the approach...
My cockpit view...

Svolvær Airport Drop

I would not have been on the road today, but the change in Susan’s travel routing to get home made it possible. After an early morning walk to the airport, I was curious to hit the road.

The weather pattern – sun in the south and clouds in the north of the Lofoten Archipelago – made it another colourful ride, although I would have preferred to see a little bit less overcasted skies along the northern shores of Austvågøya. A complain on a very high level. It was a very good ride.

I have decided to stay a second night in Svolvær, no rush.

Fair winds…

Met around a dozen bikepackers today.
Svolvær City Beach in the afternoon hours.

Hattviksandøya Beach

The weather forecast invited for another beach day. Well, half day, as there was some boat work on the list as well again and the sky cleared only up just after lunch time. There was then still no rush as the days are still long although slowly you feel, that it is changing.  We try to get most out of it. 

We took the dinghy through a labyrinth of skerries to get to the island of Sandøya and its picturesque beach with the massive rock formation of Litlmolla in the background. Our mussel collection got bigger and bigger.

Fair winds…

Skrovøya – No Rush!

Finally it was a clear cut taking weather forecasts also into the equation. Stay on Skrova Island, no reason to rush! It became a day with some boat work and a short hike to further explore this beautiful island. The beaches were our target despite the low hanging clouds. 

Fair winds…

Skrovøya – Lofoten

We left Svolvær in the early morning hours as our program for the planned one night stopover at Skrova Island was packed and included one bike ride and one hike. Sitting here now in the evening ours, I am not sure we make it to leave tomorrow, the island is simply to gorgeous.

Our cockpit view captures it all: The traditional and modern world in marvellous nature.

After cycling every inch on the island, including the gravel section to Hattvika Beach we clocked just below 10km. It gave us a good overview about the size and vibe on the island, known as the cultural hotspot of the Lofoten. The photo exhibition arranged within the road tunnel under perfect lighting conditions is one of the proof.

Hard to believe, a tunnel on this tiny island.

After some rest, we kicked-off the hike to Skrova’s mountain viewpoint at 259m above sea level. After a relatively short but rough hike we took plenty of time to absorb this breathtaking view – without doubt, the best on the Lofoten so far.

The best view we had so far here in the Lofoten. Skrova - The Photo Island.

With less than 200 locals permanently living on this amazing island, which is only a 30 minutes ferry ride away from tourist hotspot Svolvær, and now at peak holiday season in Norway, I remain puzzled how peaceful this spot comes across.

Tired but happy we will see, if we can leave this place behind already tomorrow and move on as planned or not. I have some doubts!

Fair winds…

Gravel Trial Test

Debatable, if this church presents itself more picturesque from outside at low or at high tide.

After spotting another track on Komoot around Svolvær, I was back in the saddle around 10am to check it out. Additionally motivated from the fact, that the ride will pass along Vågan Church in Kabelvåg, a unique heritage building, which we missed last time. Also had another check on Kabelvåg downtown before hitting the gravel.

Wild, ~500m catch & carry was needed.

The gravel became a trial and my Chiru X-Root got quickly to its limit. Nevertheless I got through and enjoyed another excursion into this beautiful nature.

Fair winds…

Page 6 of 119

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