My late afternoon walk took me to the Petite Place Des Habous and its surroundings. It is also known as the new medina in Casablanca, a very charming place and excellent example for tradition and tourism going hand in hand. On my way I passed some posh living areas and l’Hermitage Garden.
Fair winds…
Zouheir operates the nearby bikeshop in Casablanca and is a friend of Ismail, who did the service on our reliable CO2 free two-wheeler in Marrakesh. A concise biker community.
Zouheir helped me out on the bended rear derailleur upon arrival in Morocco and to find his shop in the first place was an early adventure into Morocco. At that time I had no option than to find his boot within the labyrinth of the souk in Derb Ghallef. It is close to where we are staying, a 10min walk.
The guide reads as follows:
“Derb Ghallef Flea Market“
“Derb Ghallef is a vibrant, bustling district in Morocco’s largest city, Casablanca. Located in the Maârif neighbourhood, this busy, commercial area offers visitors an insight into the real Casablanca, away from touristy hotspots and landmarks, but still offering plenty to explore and experience.
Putting this neighbourhood on the map is the vast flea market – one of the biggest permanent second-hand markets in Morocco. If you enjoy rummaging through cluttered stalls packed full of antiques, books, garments and furniture, then you could spend days at Derb Ghallef Flea Market. However, it’s most famous for its electrical items, with many stalls selling phones, laptops and gadgets. The unpaved passageways can become sweltering in the hot summer months, while during rainy season water can cascade down the narrow walkways. The souk is also one of the best spots in Casablanca for sampling kebabs and tagines from one of the many street vendors and tiny, independent restaurants.“
© Copyright 2024 The Culture Trip Ltd. All Rights Reserved.
While searching for the boot in the labyrinth, supported by some locals, I asked myself, if I am on the right mission here or just challenging fortune. The moment Zouheir grabbed my bike and put it up into the bike stand, I knew, it will all be good – and it was. Professional! I have all confidence.
The bike was now back for a mini-service-cleaning before hitting the road on some final miles through Casablanca and getting it subsequently packed for the flight.
Fair winds…
We are back to what used to be part of my home: Marriott. The circle is closed, bikepacking Morocco as well. Few more nights here in Casa and off we go.
It was an A to B ride today, and while getting closer towards the biggest city of Morocco, urbanisation and traffic increased. For me, only one option works: ignore the law, go with the flow and stay on your toes more than ever. I am used to it and the biggest risk for me remain the potholes. Well, I should add the bloody aggressive dogs or keep this as a one-off threat. Inshallah!
Fair winds…
Without breakfast, and on top changing route and accommodation for the night last minute with the help of my host, I got on the road 9:30am, half an hour later than planned. Finally I decided not to go on a 40km provincial road without a clear confirmation on the tarmac conditions and hardly any infrastructure along. Too risky.
Therefore I ended up in Settat after a fast and fascinating ride. The landscape is playing between fulminant surplus and pure scarcity. Endless kilometres of lands trying to be cultivated, big time. Not much growing yet but but huge areas under development.
A local on a motorbike coming along tried to encourage me two times to stop but I signalled him, that I want to proceed and kept paddling. On the final attempt, we moved side by side at the same speed for a while and he wanted to give me some oranges, which he placed into his helmet now hanging at the steering bar of his two-wheeler. He did not want money, just supporting me on my ride.
While passing through a village hundreds of school kids finished school and were on their way home. They always get super excited at the moment they see me, cheering and waving their hands. A group of young boys at some distance were eagerly trying to stop me, the normal reaction, but again, I would still be in the village now, stopping at each and every occasion. When one of the boys did throw a stone behind me, which hit the bike frame, I stopped. This happened before on my trip to Ourika the other day. Yelling at him did show some signs of misbehaviour and regret and I kept it there and moved on. It is a fine balance sometimes between being welcome despite not playing by their rules. Finally they will ask for money or some sweets. An absolut exception and I have great sympathy with them. My overall experience with the local people is overwhelming positive while travelling this country.
Tomorrow we will get back to start in Casablanca.
Fair winds…
After another five star breakfast I left poop & pampers behind. It became a ride to arrive today without much excitement apart from the fact that, first time since in Morocco, I was stopped by the police to check out my passport. I have passed numerous checkpoints but never caught any of their attention, until today. Three officers, very friendly and respectful chatting with me and I was curious and wondering, when they come up with their story. They didn’t and after ten minutes or so I was back in my routine.
Routine is the matching term here. I was on a 37km straight line at that time without the slightest deviation in direction. Good music helped me to keep the required will power up.
My host in Ben Guerir was expecting me and offered some nice welcome tea upon arrival. The accommodation is in the middle of the town center, market and shops are everywhere around. From avocado to ziplock bags, all there, whatever you can think of including popcorn.
While walking the market, there were many small loudspeakers playing different prayers, I believe. Now, just after 8pm, there is one transmission going covering the whole area. First time I encounter it this way.
For dinner, I enjoyed a traditional Arabic dish called Kepsa besides the Moroccan Bisara soup. All very tasty.
Tomorrow will be a long day in the saddle. Good night.
Fair winds…
After a total of six days in Marrakesh with multiple walks through its famous souks, my fascination for this endless micro-economic labyrinth remains unabated high. It’s not only the appealing art and design work of the goods offered in decent quality but it’s also the fact, that almost everything is produced locally here in Morocco.
The Ferrari next to the horse drawn coach wagon does not work at all in this context. I am not sure, how this fits into my overall picture at this very moment.
We are back on the road – on our two wheels – heading north.
Fair winds…
During my first walk today, I was keen to pay a visit to the tanneries, a pretty unique place within the medina of Marrakesh. I got fascinated and shocked at the same time.
My second walk took me to a more tranquil place, the Moroccan Teahouse. I had made a reservation for a table to meet fellow bikepacker Kai again. On my way I passed through the wonderful Cyber Park, a beautiful garden.
A lot of walking today…
Fair winds…
I am not the only one getting pampered here in Marrakesh. The bike went to a beauty spa as well and I picked it up 24 hours later. Thoroughly cleaned & inspected by Abdul and his team, ready for the road again.
Also head the great pleasure to catch up over two evenings with some German fellow sailors. We met in Lerwik/Shetlands first time, both boats heading south. The two are exploring Morocco by car, while the boat gets some rest and upgrades in Agadir before getting back on the ocean crossing over to the Canary Islands.
Tomorrow is my last day in Marrakesh and it shall be a cultural day. Let‘s see.
Fair winds…
After crossing the river in Ourika and some final views backwards towards the mountain ridge it became a fast, straight line return ride back into Marrakesh, where my ten days Atlas Mountain Ride is closing its loop.
Still being a bit overwhelmed and puzzled by all the impressions, I am grateful for the experience and encounters made during my time within this part of the world. It was a very pleasant and relaxed time with the one-off exception – aggressive dogs.
The Arabic word of “Joud“ would summarise it best for me in its broader sense and considering peoples‘ hardship of life paired with the climate conditions within these mountains. All respect!
Fair winds…
It was another pano-day, heavily influenced by a planning mishap, which ended up to play in my favour and finally became one of the best rides since I arrived in Morocco. I have now upgraded Morocco biking to 4 out of 5 stars, not quite matching Lake Toba/Indonesia, Santo Altao/Cape Verde or Bermuda. This considers scenery only and does not take other things like culture, etc. into consideration. Beautiful nature and a good bike make out my adveture days on the road. Here is how it all unfolded:
After a good breakfast, body and brain were prepared for the final downhill into warmer climate. My accommodation was booked in Ourika the evening before. I need to know my end point before starting off, that‘s me. The initial draft Komoot planning was set to 60km until I learned that there are two towns with somehow similar sounding names. I got it mixed up. Long story short, the extra 20km took me through some of the nicest routes so far along the northern rim of the Atlas Mountains. Small rural villages embedded into the farmland, a bit of Tuscany feeling. This plateau at the foot of the mountains seems to be very fertile for agriculture. It included 10km gravelling on hard compacted roads and after quite a bit of up- and downhill ended back up on a ridge reaching 1000hm in altitude. Strolling along, it offered spectacular views towards the High Atlas Mountains showing their white toppings. I did not want to move on. Hard to imagine a better way of saying goodbye!
The short but steep decline took me back into reality for the night.
Fair winds…