We are settling in at Svolvær under mixed weather conditions keeping the Hallberg-Rassy brand up at highest levels. Mira and Toine from SY SeaQuest (HR48) joined us second time for a short stopover before proceeding to their winter berth further north. We are in good company.
Days are planned around the weather and we maximise our time and activties outdoor whenever the sun comes out.
Fair winds…
Our last morning walk on Skrovøya took us one more time to Hattvika Beach presenting itself under breathtaking conditions with all reasons to pause.
Unfortunately we had decided to leave Skrova Island for better winter shelter in Svolvær. The storms will come.
After 5nm passage, the Fisherman’s Wife welcomed us at the port’s entrance of Lofoten’s capital marina – Svolvær. It will be our home for the winter. We are more than excited.
Fair winds…
Passing along this road sign keeps reminding me at my Singaporean days, where we got guided by the slogan “Be Considerate!“ at the time they refused to close a walk-bike-lane for bikers during a running event, for example. It worked, although I ended up among the runners crowd for a short while standing next to my bike until it was over and I could cycle on. Everyone was safe & happy.
Well, today I was on a special mission – checking out Hopen Leading Light, a navigational sign, where boating meets biking. I spotted this tiny building some time back and wondered since then what it is about until the penny dropped.
Once I found the entry point into the track it was not long and I had to park the bike in order to proceed the muddy track up the hill towards Øvre Hopen. Together with Nedre Hopen they both create a leading straight line into the Hopen Fjord as a navigational help for ships in and out.
The valley is called Trolldalen and the track leads up to the lake Trolldalsvatnet, which remains on the list. Next time I get the water tight boots on to explore the lake further.
There is never nothing to discover.
Fair winds…
Besides the gales passing through in between, the colours of autumn manage to keep our attention. It does not matter, if it appears during the morning walk, a short bike ride or while on commuting on the ferry between Skrova Island and Svolvær. Not much more needed to rank autumn over summer.
Fair winds…
After two weather days (rain & gale), the contrast could not be more extreme and my morning walk today to Hattvika Beach showed autumn colours in full swing under a perfect blue sky. From pain to pleasure!
It then became an extended morning tea with meditation and Hafenkino going hand in hand.
We also took the opportunity to clean the prop and renew its stern anode. Water temperature sits at 12°C but my 7mm wetsuit kept me cosy and comfortable.
During our evening walk we passed as ususal my little aquarium while enjoying more scenic views towards the westerly stretch of the Lofoten Islands.
We can accept more of these days!
Fair winds…
After the near gale 7 having passed through, the outdoor thermometer showed 4.8°C this morning. The rain showers changed into hail, even on Skrova Island, and left some white caps on the higher mountains of the Lofoten Islands.
A bit further East, towards the mainland, the Norwegian Meteorological Institute issued a yellow snow warning for the higher mountain passes.
Interesting & fascinating to see how quickly the scenery is changing.
Fair winds…
We have completed our heatpump project over the last couple of days and can now produce approximately 6kW of heat from 2kW electricity, keeping our tiny floating home warm and cosy. Oil radiators and the diesel air heater will compliment the overall onboard heating regime to ensure alternatives.
After some miserable rainy days, the sun came back today and invited for a short bikeride to one of the secondary lakes within the Kabelvåg plaines. It is also a cross-country skiing area with a serviced Skihytta open from January to April.
Last night was an exceptional cold night. The ambient temperature was first time down to 7°C and got back to 12°C later the day. The sun makes a difference and we still get 20°C inside the boat during the day. The sauna after the ride feels like heaven until jumping into the 13°C cold water.
Fair winds…
Svolvær’s backcountry is surounded by four main lakes, namely: Leirospollen, Lille Kongsvatnet, Nedre Svolværvatnet and Gardsosen. Some of them are connected via streams, rivers or barrages to further lakes, differently impacted by the tide. My assessment today concludes, that all of them are inviting for more kayaking. Let’s see.
It looks like the weather is reaching another turning point coming week, similar to last years’ recorded trends. 3-5°C less temperature and perhaps a bit more intensified sun/cloud/shower mix.
Overall, we can’t complain.
Fair winds…
The gale went through over night and had lost its strength at the time I did my morning walk.
The clouds kept painting the scenery throughout the day and the short one hour kayaking tour with Lille Poro 🛶 felt more like meditation than anything else. It adds another dimension.
Why the hack to leave this island?!?
Fair winds…
It was the first ferry at 7:20am taking me to the mainland and promising me six hours of sunshine before the sky gets grey. There was a primary school class already on that ferry at that early time returning after a night on Skrova. Well, I need to get my morning routine in order…
Arriving in Kalle, Oddmar, made this ride very special. A former teacher and today a retired nature lover, sitting on a rock at the river near Kallevatnet. 5 cameras in place, 4 GoPro in the river under water and 1 Rollei on a tripod above. The cameras counting fish and its movements. Being in the third year now, he starts to believe his research might finally indicate, that the herring is more robust against water temperature increase while the trout moves to colder waters, up the river. After a million more questions, I had to move on. Inspiring.
Oddmar also identified more than 130 different plants at this garden eden kind of place. We agreed to catch up in Svolvær later in the year over coffee & cake.
Out of the 32km in total, around 15km were a pure intake of natural nutrients. The eagle, the mussels pickers, the sheer plaines, etc.
Lateron I met young fellow biker Oskar in the sauna, a student from Hanover on a solo bikepacking tour before hitting the books back home. Almost missed my return ferry back…
Fair winds…
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