Passing through this historical open air museum Sunnmøre near Ålesund. Very nicely arranged.
I have started to sleep with my eye mask as the nights are too bright for me to get decent deep sleep. It works.
Fully rested I jumped on the bike to explore more of Ålesund‘s surroundings. Different highlights at different waypoints made it colourful but my favourites today were the open air museum and the little hill crossing through beautiful forest.
I might have to rethink my prejudice that Norway is not a great 🚴♂️ country.
Sukkertoppen in Norway is the counterpart of the Great Sugar Loaf in Wicklow Mountains/Ireland with the only distinction, that the latter one has no meaning at all in terms of navigational guidance while the Norwegian formation is very helpful on the approach into Alesund. Vegetation is grossly different, both not bikeable to the summit. I turned around as the risk of fall and injury got out of proportion.
Nevertheless it became a pleasant ride through some suburbs and nearby parks showing leftovers from WW II within some lush green fjell landscape. I also bumped into The Last Bonfire in Slinnbålet, which is under full preparation for the Midsummer celebrations.
On the final miles the Norwegian hospitality showed up at its best. I got dragged from the 🚴♂️ invited to Coffee & Cake by the local community celebrating the opening of a new road, which included a new cycle track.
I am glad we made it north of Cape Stad during our passage from Shetland to Norway. This cape is also known as West Cape, the most western cliff in Norway.
It does not only form the borderline between the North Sea located to the south and the Norwegian Sea to the north, it also functions as a blocker for the low pressure systems to move much further east. In other words, the low pressure system raging currently southwest of Alesund will not get much closer to us, winds dropping rapidly.
Canoeists and Stand-up Paddlers face calm waters, mooring lines not getting tested either.
Customs came first, Border Control second and after that we took a quick walk to the next Politi Station inquiring about long term stay regulations in Norway, for boat and crew.
The Lady got desalted, the mess sorted.
Our after-work-walk took us a short but steep distance to Aksla Hill for an unspoiled view over the city.
In summary we have to conclude, that the initial pain got compensated by some pleasant sugar sailing under the sun during the second day of this passage and the landfall and approach into Norway, respectively Alesund. Impressive! We took it slowly under sails and casted the mooring lines just after midnight, in twilight, rafting up at a HR57. After a well deserved arrival drink, it is time to catch some sleep.
Another memorable passage is soon coming to its end while we start to understand what it means to sail these waters. Not only that we crossed an extensive offshore oil platform area during a misty and rainy night, we got a last minute near gale warning from the Norwegian Met Office.
Leftovers from an dismantled oil rig.
Wind gusts of 30kn and around 2m wind waves/8s for 7 hours was what we were promised and accepted for this passage to Norway at the time of leaving Lerwick. Wave period and direction might make it a bit unpleasant but it’s a balanced decision to be taken.
The wind gusts projected became the new baseline – Near Gale 7. In other words, 30kn of wind accompanied by 3m waves on the beam for 12 hours spiced up with heavy rain. Thank you! Luckily no further gusts on top of that and at least the wind direction stayed as promised.
Some waves flying over the deck managed to creep through small openings in the cockpit tent to get our extended living area into a salty mess.
We are done with our contribution towards heavy weather cruising for this year and look forward to our landfall in Norway.
125nm to go and another cleaning day soon emerging on the horizon.
Finally the weather forecast has become acceptable for us to start the North Sea passage to Shetland. It changed every six hours the last few days, so let’s hope this is somehow stable. Weather window will close again early next week.
Six weeks Norway. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ for Fedje!
With the remote support from Tidemaster Jan, skipper SY Sutje, we analyzed and concluded: Some risks but managable. Not perfect but acceptable.
After 72 hours the wind has started to calm down and my long awaited bike ride came back onto the top of the list.
Although the total length of the island’s tarmac is in the range of 30km covering each and every house and side track, I opted for a short trip and paid a second visit to the lighthouse at the southwest tip of the island.
Second gale within a week’s time! This time hitting us from North direction peaking at 38kn @ 3am last night. Wave forecast just 5nm West from Fedje is 4m at 8s period. Crazy!
While Susan heard the shaking in the early morning hours, I enjoyed some good deep sleep thanks to my ear plugs. I am glad, that we are in a well protected spot.
We keep watching for our weather window to come, improve our attitude towards patience and cope with each moment of the days.
My butt got itchy and it was time for another walk across this fascinating island. It feels, as if we are back in April and after finding a weather window between two showers I headed off to explore the Northwest corner, not far from the boat.
The showers passed along at distance, the sky quickly opens up and sun, clouds and sea frame the light show. The landscape provides plenty of requisites, including a sheep not believing that it stopped raining.