Sundays are normally quite in this part of the world. Apart from the tourist boats operating as usual (weather permitting) shops are generally closed. I have met a few Asians looking a bit irritated not understanding, why the Alti Shopping Mall is completely locked up. Same for grocery supermarkets.
The ongoing gale provided a dramatic sky over Gardsosen, which is one of the lakes surrounding Svolvær.
Fair winds…
We are settling in at Svolvær under mixed weather conditions keeping the Hallberg-Rassy brand up at highest levels. Mira and Toine from SY SeaQuest (HR48) joined us second time for a short stopover before proceeding to their winter berth further north. We are in good company.
Days are planned around the weather and we maximise our time and activties outdoor whenever the sun comes out.
Fair winds…
Passing along this road sign keeps reminding me at my Singaporean days, where we got guided by the slogan “Be Considerate!“ at the time they refused to close a walk-bike-lane for bikers during a running event, for example. It worked, although I ended up among the runners crowd for a short while standing next to my bike until it was over and I could cycle on. Everyone was safe & happy.
Well, today I was on a special mission – checking out Hopen Leading Light, a navigational sign, where boating meets biking. I spotted this tiny building some time back and wondered since then what it is about until the penny dropped.
Once I found the entry point into the track it was not long and I had to park the bike in order to proceed the muddy track up the hill towards Øvre Hopen. Together with Nedre Hopen they both create a leading straight line into the Hopen Fjord as a navigational help for ships in and out.
The valley is called Trolldalen and the track leads up to the lake Trolldalsvatnet, which remains on the list. Next time I get the water tight boots on to explore the lake further.
There is never nothing to discover.
Fair winds…
We have completed our heatpump project over the last couple of days and can now produce approximately 6kW of heat from 2kW electricity, keeping our tiny floating home warm and cosy. Oil radiators and the diesel air heater will compliment the overall onboard heating regime to ensure alternatives.
After some miserable rainy days, the sun came back today and invited for a short bikeride to one of the secondary lakes within the Kabelvåg plaines. It is also a cross-country skiing area with a serviced Skihytta open from January to April.
Last night was an exceptional cold night. The ambient temperature was first time down to 7°C and got back to 12°C later the day. The sun makes a difference and we still get 20°C inside the boat during the day. The sauna after the ride feels like heaven until jumping into the 13°C cold water.
Fair winds…
Svolvær’s backcountry is surounded by four main lakes, namely: Leirospollen, Lille Kongsvatnet, Nedre Svolværvatnet and Gardsosen. Some of them are connected via streams, rivers or barrages to further lakes, differently impacted by the tide. My assessment today concludes, that all of them are inviting for more kayaking. Let’s see.
It looks like the weather is reaching another turning point coming week, similar to last years’ recorded trends. 3-5°C less temperature and perhaps a bit more intensified sun/cloud/shower mix.
Overall, we can’t complain.
Fair winds…
It was the first ferry at 7:20am taking me to the mainland and promising me six hours of sunshine before the sky gets grey. There was a primary school class already on that ferry at that early time returning after a night on Skrova. Well, I need to get my morning routine in order…
Arriving in Kalle, Oddmar, made this ride very special. A former teacher and today a retired nature lover, sitting on a rock at the river near Kallevatnet. 5 cameras in place, 4 GoPro in the river under water and 1 Rollei on a tripod above. The cameras counting fish and its movements. Being in the third year now, he starts to believe his research might finally indicate, that the herring is more robust against water temperature increase while the trout moves to colder waters, up the river. After a million more questions, I had to move on. Inspiring.
Oddmar also identified more than 130 different plants at this garden eden kind of place. We agreed to catch up in Svolvær later in the year over coffee & cake.
Out of the 32km in total, around 15km were a pure intake of natural nutrients. The eagle, the mussels pickers, the sheer plaines, etc.
Lateron I met young fellow biker Oskar in the sauna, a student from Hanover on a solo bikepacking tour before hitting the books back home. Almost missed my return ferry back…
Fair winds…
The E10 road covers 850km from Å in Norway to Luleå in Sweden, 18 tunnels, all in Norway. One of them connects Kabelvåg and Rørvika. Berfore 1974, the tunnel’s opening year, Rørvikskaret (karet = pass) was the only way for cars and busses to pass the ridge. Today a hiking and a rough gravel adventure.
A sunny ride ending in the sauna.
Fair winds…
The ferry arrived at Skrova Ferjekai on time this morning and as expected on a calm weather day. In any case, the photo exhibition at the terminal still attracs me during any potential waiting time. Typical Skrova Island.
My ride then took me again along the Austnesfjorden until turning left into the Midnattsolveien getting me all along after 20km into the village of Laukvika. While this road is a pleasure to ride, extra motivation came from the delicious home-baked cakes at På KaiKanten Café with its home living room atmosphere.
I had pre-booked a sauna session at the Lyst Lofoten Sauna upon my return from the ride. Decent arrangement with a roof top area for break out sessions and elevated jumps straight into the sea. I am not right there yet. Perhaps my yearly membership and monthly subscription will get me there one day…
The view, whilst sweating in 90°C, towards the world’s oldest civil training ship – Georg Stage since 1882 – came as a complimentary extra. I have spoken to two young crews yesterday. Great tradition alive, very nice encounter, meticulously maintained tall ship. I wish, I could apply but Danish is mandatory.
Hm, tomorrow will be a rest day with some boat work.
Fair winds…
The sun was out and so was I, 8:35am sharp, on the ferry to Svolvær. The E10 was mine as the traffic has decreased significantly by now, perhaps one car each 3km on average, I would guess.
There was a bit of side road left, which I had not done yet with a Sami tent at the end of it. It inspired me for long but today was the day. Lavvu in Austpollen is the official name. What a gem! Will be back.
A marvelous ride on a marvelous bike!
Fair winds…
The ferry schedule between Skrova and Svolvær made room for a short bike ride among my appointments in town and I checked out a gravel road ending up at Kongsfossen Kraftverk. Although the hydro power station is not in operation anymore, the road going there has not only been maintained in good compacted gravel conditions but also presenting some nice reflecting views.
My appointment at the Svolvær Politi went smooth and I am now allowed to stay indefinitely in Norway.
Fair winds…
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