Besides the gales passing through in between, the colours of autumn manage to keep our attention. It does not matter, if it appears during the morning walk, a short bike ride or while on commuting on the ferry between Skrova Island and Svolvær. Not much more needed to rank autumn over summer.
After two weather days (rain & gale), the contrast could not be more extreme and my morning walk today to Hattvika Beach showed autumn colours in full swing under a perfect blue sky. From pain to pleasure!
It then became an extended morning tea with meditation and Hafenkino going hand in hand.
We also took the opportunity to clean the prop and renew its stern anode. Water temperature sits at 12°C but my 7mm wetsuit kept me cosy and comfortable.
During our evening walk we passed as ususal my little aquarium while enjoying more scenic views towards the westerly stretch of the Lofoten Islands.
After the near gale 7 having passed through, the outdoor thermometer showed 4.8°C this morning. The rain showers changed into hail, even on Skrova Island, and left some white caps on the higher mountains of the Lofoten Islands.
A bit further East, towards the mainland, the Norwegian Meteorological Institute issued a yellow snow warning for the higher mountain passes.
Interesting & fascinating to see how quickly the scenery is changing.
We have completed our heatpump project over the last couple of days and can now produce approximately 6kW of heat from 2kW electricity, keeping our tiny floating home warm and cosy. Oil radiators and the diesel air heater will compliment the overall onboard heating regime to ensure alternatives.
After some miserable rainy days, the sun came back today and invited for a short bikeride to one of the secondary lakes within the Kabelvåg plaines. It is also a cross-country skiing area with a serviced Skihytta open from January to April.
Last night was an exceptional cold night. The ambient temperature was first time down to 7°C and got back to 12°C later the day. The sun makes a difference and we still get 20°C inside the boat during the day. The sauna after the ride feels like heaven until jumping into the 13°C cold water.
Svolvær’s backcountry is surounded by four main lakes, namely: Leirospollen, Lille Kongsvatnet, Nedre Svolværvatnet and Gardsosen. Some of them are connected via streams, rivers or barrages to further lakes, differently impacted by the tide. My assessment today concludes, that all of them are inviting for more kayaking. Let’s see.
It looks like the weather is reaching another turning point coming week, similar to last years’ recorded trends. 3-5°C less temperature and perhaps a bit more intensified sun/cloud/shower mix.
The gale went through over night and had lost its strength at the time I did my morning walk.
The clouds kept painting the scenery throughout the day and the short one hour kayaking tour with Lille Poro 🛶 felt more like meditation than anything else. It adds another dimension.
It was the first ferry at 7:20am taking me to the mainland and promising me six hours of sunshine before the sky gets grey. There was a primary school class already on that ferry at that early time returning after a night on Skrova. Well, I need to get my morning routine in order…
Arriving in Kalle, Oddmar, made this ride very special. A former teacher and today a retired nature lover, sitting on a rock at the river near Kallevatnet. 5 cameras in place, 4 GoPro in the river under water and 1 Rollei on a tripod above. The cameras counting fish and its movements. Being in the third year now, he starts to believe his research might finally indicate, that the herring is more robust against water temperature increase while the trout moves to colder waters, up the river. After a million more questions, I had to move on. Inspiring.
Oddmar, living for nature.
Oddmar also identified more than 130 different plants at this garden eden kind of place. We agreed to catch up in Svolvær later in the year over coffee & cake.
Out of the 32km in total, around 15km were a pure intake of natural nutrients. The eagle, the mussels pickers, the sheer plaines, etc.
Lateron I met young fellow biker Oskar in the sauna, a student from Hanover on a solo bikepacking tour before hitting the books back home. Almost missed my return ferry back…
It was a memorable and contemplative paddling today around the Skrova Island. Calm and slightly rough conditions playing hand in hand, just as it goes in normal life, sometimes. The buoyage in form of a crossing, also trying to give direction as shown on the photo; sometimes hard to understand but mostly helpful. I will remember this Round Island Paddling (RIP) for many reasons but one:
“On the ocean of life, we are all big ships, that pass through the night.”
I am getting used to Lille Poro 🛶, slowly. Nevertheless, keeping the VHF handheld radio ready in the grab-bag in case needed. Some people would smile about me, in rather good faith…I know that.
The E10 road covers 850km from Å in Norway to Luleå in Sweden, 18 tunnels, all in Norway. One of them connects Kabelvåg and Rørvika. Berfore 1974, the tunnel’s opening year, Rørvikskaret (karet = pass) was the only way for cars and busses to pass the ridge. Today a hiking and a rough gravel adventure.