SY Hullu Poro – Page 20 – Boating & Biking Adventures

Atlas Mountains — Day 5

On November 17, 2024

It was a straight forward ride today, mostly under the sun. A bit of a tailwind breeze compensated for the slight incline towards Agouim, our stop for a couple of nights. Wednesday might be a good day for heading further north crossing the Tizi-n-Tichkat pass again, this time in more favourable weather conditions.

Mobile coffee shops along the roads are very popular here in Morocco, mainly build into small vans. First time I passed one arranged on a trike-bike, which was on top stationed at a panoramic scenic spot. Excellent coffee, nice chat!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 4

By Bernd

On November 16, 2024

In Morocco

After some good night rest and sticking the head out of the door this morning, it was not hard to realise: the rain has come. The breakfast was served as agreed with Mohammad 9am sharp and while doing some final checks on the weather forecast I decided to enjoy a rest day here at Dar Joud. The name speaks for itself (generous home) and hospitality goes beyond that.

Lunch was served downtown at Café Voyageurs, where I already stopped by yesterday for a Café au lait. Chicken tight in braised onions topped with olives and plenty of its very aromatic local oil. Served with some fresh bread as usual. The second dish was not me, a local soup recipe. It moved quickly to the next table, where a local sipped it in no time with a happy face. No waste. It took some time to get cutlery for the first dish while it came automatically with the second. Tissues included. I was not aware that Moroccans traditionally eat with their fingers, like in India.

For dinner I returned tonight again to the Kasbah Tazentoute, which is in the neighbouring village, a 2km walk. The walk through the village was a bit irritating but a clear signpost showing the direction to the restaurant helped. It’s run by Abdul and his mother. The traditional food is delicious and served in typical moroccan ambience and style, including the music. Abdul was already expecting me and we took a quick walk to the backyards to enjoy the sunset over the garden. The three course menu included Tagine de poulet, which is my favourite main course by now although the Harira soup or a Moroccan salad as a starter are not less heathy and tasty.

As a preventative measure, I will keep taking my two charcoal tablets per day while enjoying the local Moroccan cuisine. So far so good!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 3

By Bernd

On November 15, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

Starting at low ambient temperatures of about 10°C under overcast conditions and with a 500m climb in front of us, it did not feel right to proceed after 11km in the saddle. I would have been screwed before reaching the summit. 30min later and 30 Dirham less in the pocket, my descent and panorama ride started.

Although the winds were still against us, the sky opened up a bit and with each meter on the descent the ambient temperature contributed as well to a nice long downhill admiring this valley and how people make a living out of it.

Chatting with a group of cheerful ladies harvesting olives with a long stick and inviting me to try it myself was another pleasant encounter of the day.

Today‘s night will be in one of the many, simple, clean and friendly places, which makes travelling in Morocco pretty easy.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 2

By Bernd

On November 14, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

The wind gusts were my primary enemy today paired with the sand and even managing to swirl tiny little stones around a couple of times. Two times, at very low rolling speed, this brutal force was close to success but I found the balance back before falling over. While walking the bike, I firmly had to hold it for the wind not to take it away. In fractions of seconds these gusts changed direction from left to right followed by total calm sections. Erratic!

The sunshine helped a lot, not only to admire the scenery but also to stay relatively warm. After passing the Tizi-n-Tichkat pass, all layers were needed for the downhill to our accommodation for the night. Great hospitality shown by the hotel staff, who put the gas heater next to the hot mint tea served immediately upon my arrival. A very charming place, fully booked.

A challenging day in the saddle but I feel very much rewarded by the scenery of the Atlas Mountains and its, for sure, long lasting impressions.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 1

By Bernd

On November 13, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

The weather is clearly not playing with us. The high pressure system sitting at the east of the Sahara should bring cold but sunny weather. Influenced by the low pressure system north at Gibraltar we get clouds and southerly winds. All this not being a favourable combination to cross the Atlas tomorrow. I am prepared to give it a miss, if advisable, to respect limits of body, brain and nature.

It shall be a long night sleep first.

Fair winds…

Marrakesh Stopover I

By Bernd

On November 12, 2024

In Morocco

My five star retreat is coming to an end, for now. Tomorrow we will hit the road again for a tour into the Atlas Mountains.

Marrakesh is a brain-breaker city and similar to Essaouria hard to describe in words. While both have World Heritage status, their charme is very different.

In order to focus a bit I visited the Museum of Photography today and passed on my way not only the largest Kutubiyya Mosque but also the endless jungle of Souks within the Medina.

The Museum of Photography covers mainly the people & cultures around Marrakesh from 1870 to 1950. Nicely arranged and very informative.

Fair winds…

🚴‍♂️…Chichaoua – Marrakesh…🚴‍♂️

By Bernd

On November 10, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

We have reached our second stage destination on this trip – Marrakesh. It was a straight forward ride along the signed cycle path; one water & coffee stop and vineyards added new to the list of gardens. No other highlights.

The Atlas Mountains are still hiding in the mist but the weather getting colder next week might help the sky to clear.

Feels good to be back in a hotel, where you get addressed by your name and the preferred pillow height has been retrieved from the system.

Fair winds…

🚴‍♂️…Essaouira – Chichaoua…🚴‍♂️

By Bernd

On November 9, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

The first half of today’s ride took us up onto 400m in elevation and through some other kind of moroccan garden – mainly spots of olive tree plantations, potatoes, sweetcorn. But it also came with some pain in the buttock bones until we reached the plateau; felt like they were grinding on blank metal.

The second part was pure joy. Pain gone or forgotten, incline over, headwinds ceased, good music, just cruising along. I am travelling too fast for all these wonderful impressions.

Arabic is THE language in these rural areas. French and English are hardly spoken, independent of age. Nevertheless, we get along nicely but longer conversations are barely possible.

The cost of my accommodation tonight equals exactly the price of the bus ticket for me and the bike, one way from Essaouira to Marrakesh. 120 Dirham.

Tomorrow I shall see the Atlas Mountains!

Fair winds…

👍…Essaouira…👌

By Bernd

On November 8, 2024

In Morocco

Essaouira is a charming town, which has not lost its traditional and historical roots despite a significant share of tourism. It feels like tourism and locals‘ daily life complement each other in many ways creating a real win-win for both sides.

The cultural density and diversity is amazing and to that extent new to me, extremely interesting and charming. This potpourri creates a remarkable melting pot of the new & old, traditional & modern, western & eastern, etc., multicultural & colourful world. Generally speaking, friendly, respectful, organized and not intrusive at all. Pleasant to be here and amazing to absorb.

While strolling through the endless labyrinth of the medina last night, I bumped into Boujemaa, a young Moroccan biker with a Trek Procaliber 9.5 from 2023. Nice cross bike. As there are not that many decent carbon bikes in this part of the world, we immediately started to chat about bikes and he took me to the best bike shop in town. Got all cleaned, oiled and 7bar back into the tires this morning. Not sure on the latter one based on the pump used 😀 but I will find out tomorrow. At 6bar the risk of snake bite goes up tremendously with my 28mm clinchers packed with all the luggage and harder hits from the road now and then. Enough bike talk but my hand-pump is a pain.

Boujemaa offered his help going forward, which is a great support for me, especially when it comes to approaching the Atlas Mountains soon.

On purpose I have limited the number of photos as it is impossible capturing cultural density and diversity to get close to any transformation of live impressions and feelings. Not my last trip to Morocco, I already believe to sense.

Tomorrow we will be on the road again, heading east.

Fair winds…

🚴‍♂️…Souira Kedima – Essaouira…🚴‍♂️

By Bernd

On November 7, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

I have heard various prayers at different times during the days since the arrival in Morocco. The morning prayers called Fajar become more and more my wake up time, currently at around 6:30am. Staying close to a mosque like last night, waking up is guaranteed. Good start into the day.

Today was the last ride along the Moroccan coastline as I have arrived in Essaouira, my first stage destination on this trip. It is a port city and resort. My first impression is very positive. After pushing the bike along some narrow busy roads through the medina, I finally ended up at my accommodation booked for the following two nights. It gives me the chance to explore this town a bit further in detail and same time allowing the body for some rest.

Time to get some food now!

Fair winds…