In summary we have to conclude, that the initial pain got compensated by some pleasant sugar sailing under the sun during the second day of this passage and the landfall and approach into Norway, respectively Alesund. Impressive! We took it slowly under sails and casted the mooring lines just after midnight, in twilight, rafting up at a HR57. After a well deserved arrival drink, it is time to catch some sleep.
Cheers & good night!
Fair winds…
Another memorable passage is soon coming to its end while we start to understand what it means to sail these waters. Not only that we crossed an extensive offshore oil platform area during a misty and rainy night, we got a last minute near gale warning from the Norwegian Met Office.
After a 24 hour stopover in Lerwick we are now off to Norway. All things on the list got sorted while Susan spent the full day in the mobile office. Some final food shopping and replenishment has been done and my new haircut reminds me at Shetland ponies, not sure why.
We also had a final sip in the pub before leaving Scotland but skipped the live music starting too late and being too tired.
The weather window looks good.
Fair winds…
After almost three weeks in Stornoway and 500+km in the saddle it was time to move on. Susan arrived in the meantime and I had started to intensify my studies on weather and route planning. I found it tricky. The TSS triangle formed by Tórshavn, Shetland and Stornoway is facing high speed low pressure systems passing through, which are paired with strong tidal streams and very limited safe fall back positions in case needed. Once you are out there you have to face it. Knowing about the above, I put an extra effort in for the weather routing.
Talking to the locals and some knowledgable sailors provided the full bandwidth from “be careful“ to “…which is your boat?…ah, just go!“. I am glad, we did not go with the latter option and I kept going with my studies.
The window finally picked looked pretty decent at the time we started but the dynamic proofed itself not even 12 hours later, where a moderate and manageable low pressure system forecasted for the second day intensified and presented us 25kn headwinds on our way through the “Black Hole“.
The easterly going tide peaks at about 2kn. It should be a gift but will get forfeited by a westerly going wind of 25kn. Wind against tide, a known for sailors under the category to prevent. On top of that, an old 2m westerly swell meets the quickly build up easterly going wind wave and puts you into a wobbling whirlpool. The 6 seconds wind wave period does not help either.
AI‘s summary straight to the point:
The term “black hole” in reference to the sea between Fair Isle and Shetland or Orkney refers to the area known as “The Hole”. This is a 24-mile stretch of water characterized by strong tidal streams and potentially challenging navigational conditions. It’s a descriptive term, not a literal black hole in the astronomical sense.
While Susan slept pretty well I got to 1 hour deep sleep and 5 hours dosing only over the 42 hour passage duration. That drained me out towards the end of the trip. Tacking into Bressay Sound was a pleasure on the final miles and all is quickly forgotten despite curing the body, which takes a bit longer.
It feels good to be back in Lerwick/Shetland, second time in less than 12 month! We like this place and the marina but we are not meant to stay long as our main adventure remains without a second thought:
Midsummer in Lofoten/Norway
Fair winds…
I got inspired by some photos on their website and decided to pay The Weaving Shed a visit today.
To make it a bit of a bike ride, my trip went first over the moorland before heading east again towards the sea.
It is not only the variety of yarns and its softness, what impressed me, but also the creativity and dedication of this small true family business.
Fair winds…
My motivation was very low this morning but I felt, the weather does not leave me with the option not to go cycling. It‘s a gift you cannot let pass.
Fighting my way up north against some light northeasterly headwinds for just another lighthouse?!? My head did not get across the line until I reached Eoropie Beach and parked the bike in the dunes. This beach is another gem on the Island of Lewis followed by the incredible scenery The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse has been put in.
Last but not least the Coffee & Cake at The Breakwater overlooking The Port of Ness finally fully compensated for all the earlier physical and mental pain before flying back to Stornoway.
Fair winds…
Today’s scenic ride included visits to some traditional blackhouses. While the one in Arnol was under refurbishment, the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village offered the full program. Self catering accommodation, a museum with media show & shop, and last but not least: Coffee & Cake! Another nice ride.
Fair winds…
The weather stays friendly and my nose is not getting out of the whipped cream for at least another week or so. Fortuna is part of the game when coming out here to some of the most remote places within Europe and then facing this kind of weather but it’s also another proof, that the month of May is a good time to travel these latitudes as I have been told numerous times by locals.
The day started with fog! Within an hour, the sun cleared not only the mist but also the thin layer of clouds. A short recovery ride was on today’s program, same time testing the new aerobars, finally. Feels comfortable.
The castle itself with its surrounding scenery offers some lite mountain bike tracks, occasionally rougher gravel faced was eaten away by the intrinsic suspension of the titanium and the S-Works 33mm Tracer tyres currently fitted. With no doubt, I could feel the difference to the Roubaix.
Tomorrow I will be out biking!
Fair winds…
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