Boating & Biking Adventures

Category: Norway Page 2 of 17

Vagån’s Backcountry

Since yesterday we have passed the period of the Polar Nights in Svolvær and the sun starts to creep above the horizon again. Time to get out, if there is no weather under Norwegian terminology, meaning blue sky.

Our snowshoes are ordered and under delivery but in the meantime we took advantage of the excelent service from BUA Vagån in Kabelvåg.

It was a  longer hike on a comparable much longer day!  To be precise:

      • Sunrise 
      • Sunset 
      • Length of day: 
      • Difference from yesterday: 
      • Solar noon at 

We are now moving fast on the length of the days and look forward to spend more quality time out in the backcountry of Svolvær and its surroundings.

Fair winds…

Another Winter Walk

The ongoing freezing temperatures keep shaping the winter scenery with lakes starting to build some ice formations. Sweetwater “vatnets”, as expected, ahead of the saltwater fjords.

While the X-country skiing tracks are prepared the works on the downhill skiing lift area are still underway, expected to open soon.

We will be out exploring this winter wonderland further going forward.

Fair winds…

Hibernation

A memorable start into New Year 2026. Live screenshot taken from nearby webcam this morning.

After quite some time since our return from Tromsø, we are slowly getting out of hibernation mode. The Polar Nights will end soon and the Civil Twightlight duration will not only increase quickly but also allow the sun to show up again.

These days are hard to record. From me fighting a nasty cold, endless pouring torrential rain, hurricane graded storm, thousands of cod fish standing next to our boat, to the return of snow, etc.. Intensity and speed of change make it difficult to believe it’s real. Dark versa bright moments. An arctic glimpse.

10am, on another day. Hard to comprehend.

A snapshot from yr.no paired with a one off hurrican-grade gust out of nothing straight onto the beam, trying to turn The Lady upside-down, will hopefully remain a once in a lifetime experience. Gooseskin granted even days after the event, where sliding full mugs become negligible compared to a near miss burning candle. Meassured 39.1m/s of wind gust at the nearby Svolvær Airport sets a clear mark. 1500 households on the Lofoten temporarily without power, planes, ferries, busses, all cancelled, bridges closed, Hurtigruten seeking for shelter.

We were lucky, though still puzzeled.

We had to complete our two-years-walk, starting with the official fireworks at 7pm in 2025 and ending around lunch time in 2026 under icy blue skies with northern winds trying in vain to get the last bit of warmth out of us. We did not party all night…

Happy New Year to all!

Fair winds…

Tromsø by Hurtigruten

We took a week off and jumped on the Coastal Express running Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen since 1893 to get to Tromsø. While the voyage itself was exciting, we are still puzzeled from the many impressions gathered from this fascinating city and its surroundings. The blue skies framed it nicely for us.

Pixelparty on Komoot.

Fair winds…

Polar Night

Snapshot taken from yr.no providing comprehensive weather data for Norway and above.

The polar night season has started for Svolvær and shall last pretty much four weeks (only) until 5th January. Winter solstice, the darkest day of the year, shall be on 21st December @ 16:03, the time when our loitering question, “how dark is dark in Lofoten during polar nights”, will finally be answered.

We are very positive to live through this period of time without grumbling or sights of depression. To me, Fridtjof Nansen’s thoughts, more than 130 years ago and perhaps not less relevant in today’s world, are putting it in some mindful context:

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Fridtjof Nansen, Farthest North, July 11, 1894:

At last the southerly wind has returned, so there is an end of drifting south for the present.

Now I am almost longing for the polar night, for the everlasting wonderland of the stars with the spectral northern lights, and the moon sailing through the profound silence. It is like a dream, like a glimpse into the realms of fantasy. There are no forms, no cumbrous reality—only a vision woven of silver and violet ether, rising up from earth and floating out into infinity…But this eternal day, with its oppressive actuality, interests me no longer—does not entice me out of my lair. Life is one incessant hurrying from one task to another; everything must be done and nothing neglected, day after day, week after week; and the working day is long, seldom ending till far over midnight. But through it all runs the same sensation of longing and emptiness, which must not be noted. Ah, but at times there is no holding it aloof, and the hands sink down without will or strength—so weary, so unutterably weary.

Ah! Life’s peace is said to be found by holy men in the desert. Here, indeed, there is desert enough; but peace—of that I know nothing. I suppose it is the holiness that is lacking.

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Life will go on in Lofoten, so will the tourism. The North Cape Line, one of the Signature Lines operated by Hurtigrouten regularly stops in Svolvær keeping tour operators busy all year. So done today on the 1st Polar Night and the 2nd Sunday of Advent. Listening to some locals, the best time of the year has started…

We are eagerly looking ahead towards the next 4 weeks.

Fair winds…

Last Sunset 2025

Kabelvåg from a different perspective under the moon around noon time.

The day has come. Today was the last bike ride under the sun in 2025 unless we move to lower latitudes. The all day moon over the snow scattered Lofoten mountains was more impressive than the hiding leftovers of the sun. 

Nevertheless, I deeply breathed in the last 33 minutes of daylight of the year. The dopamine produced under these biking conditions is a bit scary. Pure joy.

We will now be moving from dawn to dusk with the long nights in between.

Fair winds…

Snapshot taken from yr.no providing comprehensive weather data for Norway and above.

Stone Age & Middle Ages

The spirit for today’s ride was driven by a reading about the stone age caves in the middle ages estate Storvågan, both being important historical landmarks in the same place. As the public information on the caves is scarce, I ended up at the reception of the nearby Nyvågar Rorburhotel for more details. Two heads over one monitor screen, I got more clever than before but further exploration has to wait. It’s too wet.

Official daylight was limited to 61 mintues today and I did not want to miss the leftovers of the sun…

Tomorrow will be a biking day!

Fair winds…

Lofoten Handicrafts

The rain took most of the snow away and left a thin laminated layer of ice on the frozen roads. Daylight  was forecasted at 1 hour plus for the day with little overcast. Perfect for our long pending trip to Henningsvær. Another bus and bike trip. Susan on four wheels, me on two. The funny thing is, that the bus is not much warmer at the time leaving Svolvær, coming fresh from the bus depot.

Our handicraft is now getting produced and will be a unique combination of form and colour. Let’s see.

Fair winds…

Low Pressure Spin Off

The North is known for rapid weather changes and I believe, the further you get North the more rapid and intense they can be.

We have been put in a 10 days comfort zone after the recent four days/four gales period went through but then Susan spotted a new colourful dot on the windmap.

A significant low pressure (LP) systsem between Iceland and Scotland was supposed to spin off a relatively small secondary low at the area around Cape Stad. Moving fast from Vestkap towards the Vestfjorden. It did.

Within less than 48h the music was on again, The Lady up for another round of waltz in moderate swell. We are glad it is waltz and not tango or even rock’n roll. This LP beast did bite itself fiercely into the mountain enclosed triangle (Vestfjorden) remaining quite persistent before it got dissolved on the spot turning back to light green, even blue on the windmap. Pouring rain comes as a free gift, as ususal from these southerly driven attacks.

We took the maximum out of this weather event and pushed our comfort zone a bit further. Our view: a snow cover, which cannot withstand forecasted gusts of 50+kn for Svolvær belongs into the bin. Admittedly nervous we were watching our top or flop approach and found out that there is nothing to really worry about. The heavy duty tarpaulin cover and its design becomes a valuable piece of equipment. We get a meassured 10-15kn discount on the forecasted wind due to our well protected location. 

Then, it’s all over again, until…

Fair winds…

The King & The Fish

Solar noon at Kabelvåg Lighthouse. 11:50am with the sun now at 0° above the horizon (officially).

Susan discovered during a walk today, that new cod has been put up on the so far empty fish drying racks located just next door on nearby Svinøya. Although the fishing industry is not #1 anymore in terms of economy, it still plays a very significant role. Even before the reign of King Øystein (1103 to 1123), fish from Lofoten was Norway’s main source of income from export. His support is manifested in a statue overseeing Kabelvåg, which I passed by today during a short and pleasant ride in perfect winter conditions.

The sauna was mine! Lovely link.

Fair winds…

Page 2 of 17

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