Boating & Biking Adventures

Category: B(H)iking Page 14 of 37

Atlas Mountains — Day 9

It was another pano-day, heavily influenced by a planning mishap, which ended up to play in my favour and finally became one of the best rides since I arrived in Morocco. I have now upgraded Morocco biking to 4 out of 5 stars, not quite matching Lake Toba/Indonesia, Santo Altao/Cape Verde or Bermuda. This considers scenery only and does not take other things like culture, etc. into consideration. Beautiful nature and a good bike make out my adveture days on the road. Here is how it all unfolded:

After a good breakfast, body and brain were prepared for the final downhill into warmer climate. My accommodation was booked in Ourika the evening before. I need to know my end point before starting off, that‘s me. The initial draft Komoot planning was set to 60km until I learned that there are two towns with somehow similar sounding names. I got it mixed up. Long story short, the extra 20km took me through some of the nicest routes so far along the northern rim of the Atlas Mountains. Small rural villages embedded into the farmland, a bit of Tuscany feeling. This plateau at the foot of the mountains seems to be very fertile for agriculture. It included 10km gravelling on hard compacted roads and after quite a bit of up- and downhill ended back up on a ridge reaching 1000hm in altitude. Strolling along, it offered spectacular views towards the High Atlas Mountains showing their white toppings. I did not want to move on. Hard to imagine a better way of saying goodbye!

The short but steep decline took me back into reality for the night.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 8

I was pumped up and left Agouim after a decent breakfast at 10am. At 100 Dirham per night I allowed for two yoghurts, two egg omelette, some bread and a pot of hot mint tea. It was chilly but the initial climb up to Tizi N’Tichka Pass helped to kept me warm. The sun was out and did the rest. A pleasant ride, except some falling winds from the mountains with gusts trying to get me off the bike occasionally and, much worse, a bunch of aggressiv wild dogs chasing me determined to have some fresh German meat. That was a tight game. Bastards!

Before rolling down, I had an excellent & extended coffee break and a good chat with some local shop operators. I learned more about their country and culture. As the talk was so enlightening and went on and on, I took a second coffee (besides a Snickers chocolate bar) and we kept talking. Holiday season is over, they had plenty of time. They spoke a bit German besides English and French. Another great example, very nice people here. No pressure to buy any of their gifts under offer. Two times within a week: highest pass over the Atlas Mountains by 🚴‍♂️.

Happy jockey hiding from the wind.
Strolling down from the top of the pass took ages. The scenery is impressive, no doubt. I had to stop again and again, a clear advantage of travelling by bike. My plan for the day was to stop for a final night in the mountains.
 
A small village called Taddert, situated on 1600m altitude, offers a basic accommodation within an ordinary Moroccan life environment and low impact of tourism. The room comes without heating but warm water in the shared bathroom. I enjoy this kind of local absorption including some hardship for me here and there, which is nothing compared to locals‘ daily life.
Welcome Moroccan mint tea served in style!
I will remember this pass for long. Tomorrow is downhill-day under the sun!
 
Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 5

It was a straight forward ride today, mostly under the sun. A bit of a tailwind breeze compensated for the slight incline towards Agouim, our stop for a couple of nights. Wednesday might be a good day for heading further north crossing the Tizi-n-Tichkat pass again, this time in more favourable weather conditions.

Mobile coffee shops along the roads are very popular here in Morocco, mainly build into small vans. First time I passed one arranged on a trike-bike, which was on top stationed at a panoramic scenic spot. Excellent coffee, nice chat!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 3

Starting at low ambient temperatures of about 10°C under overcast conditions and with a 500m climb in front of us, it did not feel right to proceed after 11km in the saddle. I would have been screwed before reaching the summit. 30min later and 30 Dirham less in the pocket, my descent and panorama ride started.

Helpful Moroccans are the best insurance!

Although the winds were still against us, the sky opened up a bit and with each meter on the descent the ambient temperature contributed as well to a nice long downhill admiring this valley and how people make a living out of it.

Chatting with a group of cheerful ladies harvesting olives with a long stick and inviting me to try it myself was another pleasant encounter of the day.

Today‘s night will be in one of the many, simple, clean and friendly places, which makes travelling in Morocco pretty easy.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 2

The wind gusts were my primary enemy today paired with the sand and even managing to swirl tiny little stones around a couple of times. Two times, at very low rolling speed, this brutal force was close to success but I found the balance back before falling over. While walking the bike, I firmly had to hold it for the wind not to take it away. In fractions of seconds these gusts changed direction from left to right followed by total calm sections. Erratic!

The sunshine helped a lot, not only to admire the scenery but also to stay relatively warm. After passing the Tizi-n-Tichkat pass, all layers were needed for the downhill to our accommodation for the night. Great hospitality shown by the hotel staff, who put the gas heater next to the hot mint tea served immediately upon my arrival. A very charming place, fully booked.

A challenging day in the saddle but I feel very much rewarded by the scenery of the Atlas Mountains and its, for sure, long lasting impressions.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 1

The weather is clearly not playing with us. The high pressure system sitting at the east of the Sahara should bring cold but sunny weather. Influenced by the low pressure system north at Gibraltar we get clouds and southerly winds. All this not being a  favourable combination to cross the Atlas tomorrow. I am prepared to give it a miss, if advisable, to respect limits of body, brain and nature.

It shall be a long night sleep first.

Fair winds…

🚴‍♂️…Chichaoua – Marrakesh…🚴‍♂️

We have reached our second stage destination on this trip – Marrakesh. It was a straight forward ride along the signed cycle path; one water & coffee stop and vineyards added new to the list of gardens. No other highlights.

The Atlas Mountains are still hiding in the mist but the weather getting colder next week might help the sky to clear.

Feels good to be back in a hotel, where you get addressed by your name and the preferred pillow height has been retrieved from the system.

Fair winds…

On the approach road into Marrakesh.

🚴‍♂️…Essaouira – Chichaoua…🚴‍♂️

The first half of today’s ride took us up onto 400m in elevation and through some other kind of moroccan garden – mainly spots of olive tree plantations, potatoes, sweetcorn. But it also came with some pain in the buttock bones until we reached the plateau; felt like they were grinding on blank metal.

The second part was pure joy. Pain gone or forgotten, incline over, headwinds ceased, good music, just cruising along. I am travelling too fast for all these wonderful impressions.

Arabic is THE language in these rural areas. French and English are hardly spoken, independent of age. Nevertheless, we get along nicely but longer conversations are barely possible. 

The cost of my accommodation tonight equals exactly the price of the bus ticket for me and the bike,  one way from Essaouira to Marrakesh. 120 Dirham.

Tomorrow I shall see the Atlas Mountains!

Fair winds…

🚴‍♂️…Souira Kedima – Essaouira…🚴‍♂️

I have heard various prayers at different times during the days since the arrival in Morocco. The morning prayers called Fajar become more and more my wake up time, currently at around 6:30am. Staying close to a mosque like last night, waking up is guaranteed. Good start into the day.

Sunset Sea View in Souira Kedima.

Today was the last ride along the Moroccan coastline as I have arrived in Essaouira, my first stage destination on this trip.  It is a port city and resort. My first impression is very positive. After pushing the bike along some narrow busy roads through the medina, I finally ended up at my accommodation booked for the following two nights. It gives me the chance to explore this town a bit further in detail and same time allowing the body for some rest.

Time to get some food now!

Fair winds…

🚴‍♂️…Qualidia – Souira Kedima…🚴‍♂️

We have left Morocco’s garden behind us and what appeared to become a ride to arrive offered some nice moments and scenery. Pleasant biking climate.

One more  time, a light northeasterly wind helped to push us south while the 28mm Conti Grand Prix 4-Season was eating the tarmac without complains.

Souira Kedima is a small fishing village with enough charme for a night to simply put the head down.

Fair winds…

Page 14 of 37

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