Boating & Biking Adventures

Author: Bernd Page 9 of 119

Værøy – slow pace

Still at Værøy and unsure, if I want to move on or not. On one side it looks like not much more to explore but on the other side fascination still on the high side with new things to appear once you allow for the time to discover.

Chatting to locals is always a good source like the fisherman, who shares the story of his biggest catch under glaring eyes. Trawling 40t of cod in one single catch makes you wonder at what stage his boat would sink under such a load. Fishing is good business up here!

Not sure when to move on…

Fair winds…

Nordlandsnupen…⛰️

Besides some minor boat works it became another bike-hike-bike day to further explore the island. I passed Skarvollsanden Badestrand on my way to the hiking starting point. The beach was already packed under 67°N perspective and the scarce amount of sand of which the name is derived from. The kids had big fun.

Nordlandsnupen is with its 450m altitude the highest mountain on Værøy and offers some more spectacular views.

I parked the bike at the start of the 🚶‍♂️ track very close to the old local Sheriff‘s home from 1790 and felt this will be another good omen for the bike to be secure. Still locked it for the insurance.

The trail was moderate with only a few stretches at which climbing took over from hiking. These areas were supported by robes or chains to provide extra measure for keeping the balance. Overall a nice hike with  a birdview over Moskstraumen, one of the strongest tidal streams on the planet between Mosken Island and mainland Lofoten (Moskenesøya). Also famous and well known among anglers.

Overall a lovely walk and Brotzeit.

Fair winds…

 

Værøy – Håen & T5

My plan for the day was bike – hike – bike. I was well prepared, the biking part went as planned but another hike in between, where I did not get to the end of it. While I get used to these insane gradients supported by ladders and chains here and there, I was unsure my physical fitness will get me back, which was a climb of 400hm over 1km distance. No easier detour possible. Although the weather forecast was 0% cloud coverage for the day, some early irritation was visible and I knew a front will pass through later the day. Værøy Island means Weather Island.

Enjoying the fantastic view at Håen.

By noon I reached my biking target – Håen – and enjoyed a spectacular view, the most famous and spectacular viewpoint on Værøy Island.

I locked the bike to one of the Nato radar towers’ steel structure knowing that none of the dozen tourists expected over the day will dare to steel the bike from there.

Finally I found the starting point of hiking trail T5, bringing me down to sea level for a straight forward walk into Måstad, the abandoned village.

After a bit more than half way through the decline I decided to follow my instinct rather than risking potential trouble on the return climb due to loss of power. That gave me plenty of time for resting and my packed Brotzeit.

A roll cloud building up gusting at 35kn finally.
Another viewpoint high up along T5.

Back at the boat the roll cloud, which established and moved in from the north had reached the mountains’ top at Sørland and wind started to increase. Håen was completely covered and I can only appreciate not being up there on my return climb.

A bike, hike, quality day, which needs to settle. Not to forget the magnificent views.

Fair winds…

Værøy – Nord & Sørland

A mini-pass cut through the hills takes us from the south of the island to the northern shores.

I had a slow start into the day followed by a long on-off-ride to explore some parts of the island. It was on-off due to the many quality stops while on the way. Almost 5h for just 30km. Some light gravel. Simply breath taking this scenery under the midsummer sun.

Nordland and Sørland are today the two populated villages on Værøy, a third one at the southwest end of the island called Måstad was abandoned in the 1950s. No road connectivity and proper harbour were the main drivers.

There are hardly any tourists on the island yet but that might change soon with the Norwegian summer vacation only being a wink of the eye away.

Fair winds…

Lofoten Mainland behind Mosken Island.
Gammelkirken - oldest church in Lofoten.

Værøy – Lofoten

The Lady was the third boat rafted up in Kjerringøy and my neighbour warned me to leave early, 8am. Decided to give it a head start as well although at least light winds were only projected around noon. While passing through the Nordre Dypingsundet, which is cutting a passage through some very disorganised collections of skerries, we passed this gold standard beach without cocktail bar. I felt it is worth two shots.

Left: Værøy Island
Middle: Mosken Island
Right: Lofoten Mainland

I called Rune from the Værøy Båtforening on Værøy Island to enquiry about the situation on their pontoons as neither the cruising guide nor the internet gave me a conclusive picture. After having received 👍, the decision was clear: one week Værøy. Not only because of the weather but also to ensure mental arrival at this Norwegian outpost.

A lot to discover…

Fair winds…

Kjerringøy…👌

I cannot comprehend the beauty of this place, neither describe it. There is a wedding going on in this museum village.

Norway at its best!

Fair winds…

Bodø

We have now arrived in Bodø, the second biggest city of Northern Norway. A lot to digest in less than seven weeks since we left Ireland. Time for some kind of celebration on 67° North.

Fair winds…

🙋‍♀️…Sør Arnøy…🙋‍♂️

The small fishing village Sør Arnøy looks a bit run down and abandoned but on the contrary has a fully equipped and automated self service grocery shop, which you can access by using your credit card for authorisation. Once close to the shelves, a comprehensive selection of groceries is at your fingertips. Even alcohol is available, which needs an additional proof of age via fingerprint at the time of payment and check-out. I got some “golden” bananas. Not bad!

Today’s passage was rather uneventful and relaxed, mostly under drizzling rain presenting fascinating shades of gray.

Fair winds…

 

Bolga – Rock Hiking

The rain stopped just at the time the after-work-walk was about to start. Good timing as the Irish would say.

We were up for the second officially marked hike on the island of Bolga, which includes cutting through the Bolgtinden mountain through a tunnel cave. On the slippery grounds the hike became a climb but we made it up to the cave at the crossing‘s top. As the downhill on the other side looked even more challenging, we decided to return same way. Puppies on training!

While strolling around we realised again the diversity of this little island and its archipelago. It would not be any hardship for us to stay longer…

Fair winds…

🙋‍♀️…Bolga Brygge…🙋‍♂️

We have left Holandsfjorden in the morning just to stop after 15nm at the island-pearl of Bolga.

Although the sun does not set anymore at our current latitude, we most likely won’t see it for the rest of the week – series of rain days are forecasted.

When I spotted a two hour window during the day without drizzle, I grabbed the chance to get up to Bolgtinden, the island’s landmark. An interesting hike, easy and demanding alternating going hand in hand. Finally, crawling over the ridge on the last stretch was not for me, so I missed the summit while still getting granted with some spectacular views. Slippery when wet! Know your limit.

Some people say, Helgeland is as nice as Lofoten but less touristy. We shall find out over the next few month.

Fair winds…

Picturesque beauty despite the overcast sky.
🔎 SY Hullu Poro at Bolga Brygge.

Page 9 of 119

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