After a long Siesta it got me back into the saddle for a short evening ride. On my list was a luxury property development in a valley close to Mindelo. Before getting there, I was stopped by a security guard at the barrier towards a private property. I believe the development failed or at least it looked all a bit dreary and abondened.
Coastal route back today to Porto Novo was not less impressive. Waiting for the ferry now to get back to Mindelo.
After a decent breakfast I left Ponta do Sol early to head back towards Porto Novo. Today’s the ride was less challenging and I had plenty of time to absorb the scenery on this coastal route, which is not less impressive compared to the old mountainous road beaten yesterday.
Komoot was pretty correct this time and I enjoyed a stretch of around 20km with finest tarmac before the last 3km on the approach into the harbour village turned into nasty cobbles again. Found a nice restaurant in Porto Novo and celebrated my arrival.
I was glad that the trade winds have taken a breather during my trip as I would have faced headwinds at 15-25kn otherwise with braking waves providing drizzling salty rain at some spots along the road.
The scenery is changing once you have turned south at Farol de Fontes as you can see on the photos provided under the link below.
Arrived in Ponta do Sol for the night. Fantastic but tough ride today with great reward.
I decided to take the mountainous route on day 1 of this bike packing trip to bring the hardest bit behind me. Based on Komoot’s planning, I was expecting an uphill on asphalt but despite that it was all day cobbles, hardest cobbles. I had to walk the bike for quite some kilometres and got an offer from a local to jump onto his car, which I declined. The following downhill was a different challenge. Despite being constantly on the brakes to go slow, I had one snakebite to fix on the final stretch at 200m above sea level. By that time I also felt muscles in my body I never knew about. Finally I got down into Ribeira Grande with another comfortable but cobbled 6km to Ponta do Sol, my cosy nest for the night. What a ride!
The reward for the pain was mother nature presenting herself in a way I have never seen in this density apart from the fact that the physical & mental training contributes to some euphoria and well-being.
Mindelo has got its own beach and it looks very clean and natural so that you wonder what was there before, the city or the beach. It’s called Praia De Laginha and just 1.3km north of the marina. Not too crowded today on a Saturday early afternoon. Hopefully I will find the time next week for a swim.
Just now another fellow sailor is leaving, bound for Caribbean. You you recognise that, when the horns are blown across the marina from some friends still left behind. This marina has got a very special spirit, which I have never experienced before. If there will be a “next time”, I will plan four weeks for Mindelo, at least!
Today was an interesting ride. The island took us through two totally different landscapes and road conditions:
#1: First, sandy beaches hitting the steep volcano mountains on the coastal stretch between Salamansa to Calhau and once having taken the turn at the junction in Calhau, the lush green valley embedded gently among the surrounding hills taking us back to Mindelo from Calhau as the second part.
#2: Perfect tarmac on the first part and cobbles all the way from Calhau back into Mindelo. While planning this ride, Komoot indicated cobbles for less than 1km on the total ride but we ended up with more the 14km of cobbles. This kind of bug is definitely rare in the Komoot application.
Having said that, the Roubaix bike enjoyed the fact that its skin tubes set around 6-7 bar finally got some contact with real cobbles, while the rider remains sitting comfortably in the saddle testing the Future Shock suspension on the handle bar and the S-Works seat post specifically designed for unpaved roads. Not only the bike impressed me again but also the Cape Verdeans, who have laid these cobbles to perfection. Perhaps Komoot had that in mind as well!😂
The link below will provide more details and photos.
I am very positive by the supply, logistics and service aspects here in Mindelo from what I heard and experienced myself.
In the two market halls I visited today, there was no tourist mark-up and I also got my broken iPhone glas repaired at competitive rates in less than two hours time!
The rip-off takes place somewhere else, when you buy local papaya at 1.5 Euro per kg and fresh tuna filet for 7 Euro per kilo. Not sure where fair trade comes in.
Also the service in the marina is excellent. Laundry is being picked-up in the morning hours from the boats and same day evening hours returned back. I also received good feedback on services done by the boatyard for some fellow sailors.