After the near gale 7 having passed through, the outdoor thermometer showed 4.8°C this morning. The rain showers changed into hail, even on Skrova Island, and left some white caps on the higher mountains of the Lofoten Islands.
A bit further East, towards the mainland, the Norwegian Meteorological Institute issued a yellow snow warning for the higher mountain passes.
Interesting & fascinating to see how quickly the scenery is changing.
Fair winds…
We have completed our heatpump project over the last couple of days and can now produce approximately 6kW of heat from 2kW electricity, keeping our tiny floating home warm and cosy. Oil radiators and the diesel air heater will compliment the overall onboard heating regime to ensure alternatives.
After some miserable rainy days, the sun came back today and invited for a short bikeride to one of the secondary lakes within the Kabelvåg plaines. It is also a cross-country skiing area with a serviced Skihytta open from January to April.
Last night was an exceptional cold night. The ambient temperature was first time down to 7°C and got back to 12°C later the day. The sun makes a difference and we still get 20°C inside the boat during the day. The sauna after the ride feels like heaven until jumping into the 13°C cold water.
Fair winds…
Svolvær’s backcountry is surounded by four main lakes, namely: Leirospollen, Lille Kongsvatnet, Nedre Svolværvatnet and Gardsosen. Some of them are connected via streams, rivers or barrages to further lakes, differently impacted by the tide. My assessment today concludes, that all of them are inviting for more kayaking. Let’s see.
It looks like the weather is reaching another turning point coming week, similar to last years’ recorded trends. 3-5°C less temperature and perhaps a bit more intensified sun/cloud/shower mix.
Overall, we can’t complain.
Fair winds…
The gale went through over night and had lost its strength at the time I did my morning walk.
The clouds kept painting the scenery throughout the day and the short one hour kayaking tour with Lille Poro 🛶 felt more like meditation than anything else. It adds another dimension.
Why the hack to leave this island?!?
Fair winds…
It was the first ferry at 7:20am taking me to the mainland and promising me six hours of sunshine before the sky gets grey. There was a primary school class already on that ferry at that early time returning after a night on Skrova. Well, I need to get my morning routine in order…
Arriving in Kalle, Oddmar, made this ride very special. A former teacher and today a retired nature lover, sitting on a rock at the river near Kallevatnet. 5 cameras in place, 4 GoPro in the river under water and 1 Rollei on a tripod above. The cameras counting fish and its movements. Being in the third year now, he starts to believe his research might finally indicate, that the herring is more robust against water temperature increase while the trout moves to colder waters, up the river. After a million more questions, I had to move on. Inspiring.
Oddmar also identified more than 130 different plants at this garden eden kind of place. We agreed to catch up in Svolvær later in the year over coffee & cake.
Out of the 32km in total, around 15km were a pure intake of natural nutrients. The eagle, the mussels pickers, the sheer plaines, etc.
Lateron I met young fellow biker Oskar in the sauna, a student from Hanover on a solo bikepacking tour before hitting the books back home. Almost missed my return ferry back…
Fair winds…
It was a memorable and contemplative paddling today around the Skrova Island. Calm and slightly rough conditions playing hand in hand, just as it goes in normal life, sometimes. The buoyage in form of a crossing, also trying to give direction as shown on the photo; sometimes hard to understand but mostly helpful. I will remember this Round Island Paddling (RIP) for many reasons but one:
“On the ocean of life, we are all big ships, that pass through the night.”
I am getting used to Lille Poro 🛶, slowly. Nevertheless, keeping the VHF handheld radio ready in the grab-bag in case needed. Some people would smile about me, in rather good faith…I know that.
Fair winds…
The E10 road covers 850km from Å in Norway to Luleå in Sweden, 18 tunnels, all in Norway. One of them connects Kabelvåg and Rørvika. Berfore 1974, the tunnel’s opening year, Rørvikskaret (karet = pass) was the only way for cars and busses to pass the ridge. Today a hiking and a rough gravel adventure.
A sunny ride ending in the sauna.
Fair winds…
In no way, we spend the day with boat work below deck under today’s bright skies. The heatpump project has to wait.
Lille Poro 🛶 had to ditch into the water. The kayaking season does not stop with the summer in Lofoten and we need to practise and get prepared.
Fair winds…
It was Cruise Ferry MS Havila Pollux I had to watch out for bringing Susan back to Lofoten. It sails the Bergen – Kirkenes express route on a 12 days routine. Impressive and modern luxury travel. Very much on time, 9;20pm.
I took The Lady over to Svolvær the day before and moored in Marinepollen under the iconic Svolværgeita, also known as “The Goat”.
At the time Susan and myself arrived back at our tiny home, the nautical twilight was over with the sun dropping more than 12° below the horizon. Still, at 9:44pm, the time the photo to the left was taken, this northern pinnacle rock presents itself gracefully.
Fair winds…
The ferry arrived at Skrova Ferjekai on time this morning and as expected on a calm weather day. In any case, the photo exhibition at the terminal still attracs me during any potential waiting time. Typical Skrova Island.
My ride then took me again along the Austnesfjorden until turning left into the Midnattsolveien getting me all along after 20km into the village of Laukvika. While this road is a pleasure to ride, extra motivation came from the delicious home-baked cakes at På KaiKanten Café with its home living room atmosphere.
I had pre-booked a sauna session at the Lyst Lofoten Sauna upon my return from the ride. Decent arrangement with a roof top area for break out sessions and elevated jumps straight into the sea. I am not right there yet. Perhaps my yearly membership and monthly subscription will get me there one day…
The view, whilst sweating in 90°C, towards the world’s oldest civil training ship – Georg Stage since 1882 – came as a complimentary extra. I have spoken to two young crews yesterday. Great tradition alive, very nice encounter, meticulously maintained tall ship. I wish, I could apply but Danish is mandatory.
Hm, tomorrow will be a rest day with some boat work.
Fair winds…
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