After less than 20nm, which includes a little detour to stay away from Moskstraumen, we have now casted the lines at our second marina on the Lofoten – Sørvågen on Moskenesøya
A short sniff tour on the bike made it clear: change in landscape and increased level of traffic/tourism.
Fair winds…
Besides some minor boat works it became another bike-hike-bike day to further explore the island. I passed Skarvollsanden Badestrand on my way to the hiking starting point. The beach was already packed under 67°N perspective and the scarce amount of sand of which the name is derived from. The kids had big fun.
Nordlandsnupen is with its 450m altitude the highest mountain on Værøy and offers some more spectacular views.
I parked the bike at the start of the 🚶♂️ track very close to the old local Sheriff‘s home from 1790 and felt this will be another good omen for the bike to be secure. Still locked it for the insurance.
The trail was moderate with only a few stretches at which climbing took over from hiking. These areas were supported by robes or chains to provide extra measure for keeping the balance. Overall a nice hike with a birdview over Moskstraumen, one of the strongest tidal streams on the planet between Mosken Island and mainland Lofoten (Moskenesøya). Also famous and well known among anglers.
Overall a lovely walk and Brotzeit.
Fair winds…
My plan for the day was bike – hike – bike. I was well prepared, the biking part went as planned but another hike in between, where I did not get to the end of it. While I get used to these insane gradients supported by ladders and chains here and there, I was unsure my physical fitness will get me back, which was a climb of 400hm over 1km distance. No easier detour possible. Although the weather forecast was 0% cloud coverage for the day, some early irritation was visible and I knew a front will pass through later the day. Værøy Island means Weather Island.
By noon I reached my biking target – Håen – and enjoyed a spectacular view, the most famous and spectacular viewpoint on Værøy Island.
I locked the bike to one of the Nato radar towers’ steel structure knowing that none of the dozen tourists expected over the day will dare to steel the bike from there.
Finally I found the starting point of hiking trail T5, bringing me down to sea level for a straight forward walk into Måstad, the abandoned village.
After a bit more than half way through the decline I decided to follow my instinct rather than risking potential trouble on the return climb due to loss of power. That gave me plenty of time for resting and my packed Brotzeit.
Back at the boat the roll cloud, which established and moved in from the north had reached the mountains’ top at Sørland and wind started to increase. Håen was completely covered and I can only appreciate not being up there on my return climb.
A bike, hike, quality day, which needs to settle. Not to forget the magnificent views.
Fair winds…
I had a slow start into the day followed by a long on-off-ride to explore some parts of the island. It was on-off due to the many quality stops while on the way. Almost 5h for just 30km. Some light gravel. Simply breath taking this scenery under the midsummer sun.
Nordland and Sørland are today the two populated villages on Værøy, a third one at the southwest end of the island called Måstad was abandoned in the 1950s. No road connectivity and proper harbour were the main drivers.
There are hardly any tourists on the island yet but that might change soon with the Norwegian summer vacation only being a wink of the eye away.
Fair winds…
The rain stopped just at the time the after-work-walk was about to start. Good timing as the Irish would say.
We were up for the second officially marked hike on the island of Bolga, which includes cutting through the Bolgtinden mountain through a tunnel cave. On the slippery grounds the hike became a climb but we made it up to the cave at the crossing‘s top. As the downhill on the other side looked even more challenging, we decided to return same way. Puppies on training!
While strolling around we realised again the diversity of this little island and its archipelago. It would not be any hardship for us to stay longer…
Fair winds…
We have left Holandsfjorden in the morning just to stop after 15nm at the island-pearl of Bolga.
Although the sun does not set anymore at our current latitude, we most likely won’t see it for the rest of the week – series of rain days are forecasted.
When I spotted a two hour window during the day without drizzle, I grabbed the chance to get up to Bolgtinden, the island’s landmark. An interesting hike, easy and demanding alternating going hand in hand. Finally, crawling over the ridge on the last stretch was not for me, so I missed the summit while still getting granted with some spectacular views. Slippery when wet! Know your limit.
Some people say, Helgeland is as nice as Lofoten but less touristy. We shall find out over the next few month.
Fair winds…
As per the weather forecast, the day started with a mystical overcasted sky, which turned blue in the afternoon.
After only 15nm into the Holandsfjorden we arrived in Engen Brygge, at the foot of Engebreen, which forms part of the Svartisen Glacier.
It was time left for clearing the boat, followed by lunch and a short mini-nap before setting off to explore this glacier and its connecting lake. Standing at the glacier‘s tongue felt impressive and irritating at the same time.
Impressive in terms of what mother earth has given to us and a bit irritating with reference to the global warming discussions.
It was a hard hike for me and I am glad that tomorrow is a rain & rest day.
Fair winds…
I have started to sleep with my eye mask as the nights are too bright for me to get decent deep sleep. It works.
Fully rested I jumped on the bike to explore more of Ålesund‘s surroundings. Different highlights at different waypoints made it colourful but my favourites today were the open air museum and the little hill crossing through beautiful forest.
I might have to rethink my prejudice that Norway is not a great 🚴♂️ country.
Fair winds…
Sukkertoppen in Norway is the counterpart of the Great Sugar Loaf in Wicklow Mountains/Ireland with the only distinction, that the latter one has no meaning at all in terms of navigational guidance while the Norwegian formation is very helpful on the approach into Alesund. Vegetation is grossly different, both not bikeable to the summit. I turned around as the risk of fall and injury got out of proportion.
Nevertheless it became a pleasant ride through some suburbs and nearby parks showing leftovers from WW II within some lush green fjell landscape. I also bumped into The Last Bonfire in Slinnbålet, which is under full preparation for the Midsummer celebrations.
On the final miles the Norwegian hospitality showed up at its best. I got dragged from the 🚴♂️ invited to Coffee & Cake by the local community celebrating the opening of a new road, which included a new cycle track.
Fair winds…
Customs came first, Border Control second and after that we took a quick walk to the next Politi Station inquiring about long term stay regulations in Norway, for boat and crew.
The Lady got desalted, the mess sorted.
Our after-work-walk took us a short but steep distance to Aksla Hill for an unspoiled view over the city.
We have arrived!
Fair winds…
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