Bernd – Page 18 – SY Hullu Poro

Marrakesh: Pool & Pampers

On November 23, 2024

I am not the only one getting pampered here in Marrakesh. The bike went to a beauty spa as well and I picked it up 24 hours later. Thoroughly cleaned & inspected by Abdul and his team, ready for the road again.

Also head the great pleasure to catch up over two evenings with some German fellow sailors. We met in Lerwik/Shetlands first time, both boats heading south. The two are exploring Morocco by car, while the boat gets some rest and upgrades in Agadir before getting back on the ocean crossing over to the Canary Islands.

Tomorrow is my last day in Marrakesh and it shall be a cultural day. Let‘s see.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 10

By Bernd

On November 22, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

After crossing the river in Ourika and some final views backwards towards the mountain ridge it became a fast, straight line return ride back into Marrakesh, where my ten days Atlas Mountain Ride is closing its loop.

Still being a bit overwhelmed and puzzled by all the impressions, I am grateful for the experience and encounters made during my time within this part of the world. It was a very pleasant and relaxed time with the one-off exception – aggressive dogs.

The Arabic word of “Joud“ would summarise it best for me in its broader sense and considering peoples‘ hardship of life paired with the climate conditions within these mountains. All respect!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 9

By Bernd

On November 21, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

It was another pano-day, heavily influenced by a planning mishap, which ended up to play in my favour and finally became one of the best rides since I arrived in Morocco. I have now upgraded Morocco biking to 4 out of 5 stars, not quite matching Lake Toba/Indonesia, Santo Altao/Cape Verde or Bermuda. This considers scenery only and does not take other things like culture, etc. into consideration. Beautiful nature and a good bike make out my adveture days on the road. Here is how it all unfolded:

After a good breakfast, body and brain were prepared for the final downhill into warmer climate. My accommodation was booked in Ourika the evening before. I need to know my end point before starting off, that‘s me. The initial draft Komoot planning was set to 60km until I learned that there are two towns with somehow similar sounding names. I got it mixed up. Long story short, the extra 20km took me through some of the nicest routes so far along the northern rim of the Atlas Mountains. Small rural villages embedded into the farmland, a bit of Tuscany feeling. This plateau at the foot of the mountains seems to be very fertile for agriculture. It included 10km gravelling on hard compacted roads and after quite a bit of up- and downhill ended back up on a ridge reaching 1000hm in altitude. Strolling along, it offered spectacular views towards the High Atlas Mountains showing their white toppings. I did not want to move on. Hard to imagine a better way of saying goodbye!

The short but steep decline took me back into reality for the night.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 8

By Bernd

On November 20, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

I was pumped up and left Agouim after a decent breakfast at 10am. At 100 Dirham per night I allowed for two yoghurts, two egg omelette, some bread and a pot of hot mint tea. It was chilly but the initial climb up to Tizi N’Tichka Pass helped to kept me warm. The sun was out and did the rest. A pleasant ride, except some falling winds from the mountains with gusts trying to get me off the bike occasionally and, much worse, a bunch of aggressiv wild dogs chasing me determined to have some fresh German meat. That was a tight game. Bastards!

Before rolling down, I had an excellent & extended coffee break and a good chat with some local shop operators. I learned more about their country and culture. As the talk was so enlightening and went on and on, I took a second coffee (besides a Snickers chocolate bar) and we kept talking. Holiday season is over, they had plenty of time. They spoke a bit German besides English and French. Another great example, very nice people here. No pressure to buy any of their gifts under offer. Two times within a week: highest pass over the Atlas Mountains by 🚴‍♂️.

Strolling down from the top of the pass took ages. The scenery is impressive, no doubt. I had to stop again and again, a clear advantage of travelling by bike. My plan for the day was to stop for a final night in the mountains.

A small village called Taddert, situated on 1600m altitude, offers a basic accommodation within an ordinary Moroccan life environment and low impact of tourism. The room comes without heating but warm water in the shared bathroom. I enjoy this kind of local absorption including some hardship for me here and there, which is nothing compared to locals‘ daily life.

I will remember this pass for long. Tomorrow is downhill-day under the sun!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 6 & 7

By Bernd

On November 19, 2024

In Morocco

My time here at the Hotel Atlas in Agouim is coming to an end. The weather was cloudy and rainy the last two days and besides some more good rest and lazy time, I have also absorbed more local life in this bustling, mountainous village. A different world obviously, even compared with the bigger cities here in Morocco. Very tough life but a lot of smiling faces. Excluding the dead animal heads.

The sky should be clear by tomorrow morning to tackle some more hills on the way back towards Marrakesh.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 5

By Bernd

On November 17, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

It was a straight forward ride today, mostly under the sun. A bit of a tailwind breeze compensated for the slight incline towards Agouim, our stop for a couple of nights. Wednesday might be a good day for heading further north crossing the Tizi-n-Tichkat pass again, this time in more favourable weather conditions.

Mobile coffee shops along the roads are very popular here in Morocco, mainly build into small vans. First time I passed one arranged on a trike-bike, which was on top stationed at a panoramic scenic spot. Excellent coffee, nice chat!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains — Day 4

By Bernd

On November 16, 2024

In Morocco

After some good night rest and sticking the head out of the door this morning, it was not hard to realise: the rain has come. The breakfast was served as agreed with Mohammad 9am sharp and while doing some final checks on the weather forecast I decided to enjoy a rest day here at Dar Joud. The name speaks for itself (generous home) and hospitality goes beyond that.

Lunch was served downtown at Café Voyageurs, where I already stopped by yesterday for a Café au lait. Chicken tight in braised onions topped with olives and plenty of its very aromatic local oil. Served with some fresh bread as usual. The second dish was not me, a local soup recipe. It moved quickly to the next table, where a local sipped it in no time with a happy face. No waste. It took some time to get cutlery for the first dish while it came automatically with the second. Tissues included. I was not aware that Moroccans traditionally eat with their fingers, like in India.

For dinner I returned tonight again to the Kasbah Tazentoute, which is in the neighbouring village, a 2km walk. The walk through the village was a bit irritating but a clear signpost showing the direction to the restaurant helped. It’s run by Abdul and his mother. The traditional food is delicious and served in typical moroccan ambience and style, including the music. Abdul was already expecting me and we took a quick walk to the backyards to enjoy the sunset over the garden. The three course menu included Tagine de poulet, which is my favourite main course by now although the Harira soup or a Moroccan salad as a starter are not less heathy and tasty.

As a preventative measure, I will keep taking my two charcoal tablets per day while enjoying the local Moroccan cuisine. So far so good!

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 3

By Bernd

On November 15, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

Starting at low ambient temperatures of about 10°C under overcast conditions and with a 500m climb in front of us, it did not feel right to proceed after 11km in the saddle. I would have been screwed before reaching the summit. 30min later and 30 Dirham less in the pocket, my descent and panorama ride started.

Although the winds were still against us, the sky opened up a bit and with each meter on the descent the ambient temperature contributed as well to a nice long downhill admiring this valley and how people make a living out of it.

Chatting with a group of cheerful ladies harvesting olives with a long stick and inviting me to try it myself was another pleasant encounter of the day.

Today‘s night will be in one of the many, simple, clean and friendly places, which makes travelling in Morocco pretty easy.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 2

By Bernd

On November 14, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

The wind gusts were my primary enemy today paired with the sand and even managing to swirl tiny little stones around a couple of times. Two times, at very low rolling speed, this brutal force was close to success but I found the balance back before falling over. While walking the bike, I firmly had to hold it for the wind not to take it away. In fractions of seconds these gusts changed direction from left to right followed by total calm sections. Erratic!

The sunshine helped a lot, not only to admire the scenery but also to stay relatively warm. After passing the Tizi-n-Tichkat pass, all layers were needed for the downhill to our accommodation for the night. Great hospitality shown by the hotel staff, who put the gas heater next to the hot mint tea served immediately upon my arrival. A very charming place, fully booked.

A challenging day in the saddle but I feel very much rewarded by the scenery of the Atlas Mountains and its, for sure, long lasting impressions.

Fair winds…

Atlas Mountains – Day 1

By Bernd

On November 13, 2024

In B(H)iking, Morocco

The weather is clearly not playing with us. The high pressure system sitting at the east of the Sahara should bring cold but sunny weather. Influenced by the low pressure system north at Gibraltar we get clouds and southerly winds. All this not being a favourable combination to cross the Atlas tomorrow. I am prepared to give it a miss, if advisable, to respect limits of body, brain and nature.

It shall be a long night sleep first.

Fair winds…

Boating & Biking Adventures

Author: Bernd Page 18 of 119

Marrakesh: Pool & Pampers

Atlas Mountains — Day 10

Atlas Mountains — Day 9

Atlas Mountains — Day 8

Atlas Mountains — Day 6 & 7

Atlas Mountains — Day 5

Atlas Mountains — Day 4

Atlas Mountains – Day 3

Atlas Mountains – Day 2

Atlas Mountains – Day 1