My motivation was very low this morning but I felt, the weather does not leave me with the option not to go cycling. It‘s a gift you cannot let pass.
Fighting my way up north against some light northeasterly headwinds for just another lighthouse?!? My head did not get across the line until I reached Eoropie Beach and parked the bike in the dunes. This beach is another gem on the Island of Lewis followed by the incredible scenery The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse has been put in.
Last but not least the Coffee & Cake at The Breakwater overlooking The Port of Ness finally fully compensated for all the earlier physical and mental pain before flying back to Stornoway.
Today’s scenic ride included visits to some traditional blackhouses. While the one in Arnol was under refurbishment, the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village offered the full program. Self catering accommodation, a museum with media show & shop, and last but not least: Coffee & Cake! Another nice ride.
A biker-friendly bus service allowed to take the bike into the clean & carpeted bus-boot bringing us down south to Tarbert on the island of Harris, where today’s 🚴♂️ ride started. My focus was on beaches & bays, first ones on the west side of the peninsula and the latter ones on the way back along the east coast. Harris is very much known for its magnificent sandy beaches.
To cut a long story short, the beaches on the west side did meet my expectations and the bays on the east side were not less impressive but very very different. Amazing, two worlds within bike reach.
East Harris.
The weather stays friendly and my nose is not getting out of the whipped cream for at least another week or so. Fortuna is part of the game when coming out here to some of the most remote places within Europe and then facing this kind of weather but it’s also another proof, that the month of May is a good time to travel these latitudes as I have been told numerous times by locals.
I am tired by now and granted Titti a rest day tomorrow.
The day started with fog! Within an hour, the sun cleared not only the mist but also the thin layer of clouds. A short recovery ride was on today’s program, same time testing the new aerobars, finally. Feels comfortable.
The castle itself with its surrounding scenery offers some lite mountain bike tracks, occasionally rougher gravel faced was eaten away by the intrinsic suspension of the titanium and the S-Works 33mm Tracer tyres currently fitted. With no doubt, I could feel the difference to the Roubaix.
After my boatwork I jumped on the bike for another sunny ride. I crossed the fascinating moorland and reached the Calanais Standing Stones at the western side of Lewis.
Almost 5m high and 5000 years old, this prehistoric stone monument was only discovered about 170 years ago. Until today it remains a mystery.
The moorland is more tangible and a great source for peat, which is still being used by the locals although not as the primary source of fuel.
Stornoway’s charm reminds me at Lerwick and Kirkwall. It takes a couple of days to arrive in this different world. Once leaving the outskirts behind, the charm factor increases significantly.
A mixed ride out of tarmac and light gravel took me to the Tuimpan Head Lighthouse. The Chiru X-Root itself deployed all its inherent characteristics, while the rider must work much harder on his #LongerStrongerFaster performance.
Leaving the Highlands of the Inner Hebrides behind and heading over to the Outer Hebrides.
Sugar sailing at its best! Unfortunately it is only around 35nm from Loch Gairloch to Stornoway on the Outer Hebrides. This sailing could have gone on and on…but a low pressure system coming over from Greenland does not allow us to proceed.
It was a long day under engine but finally we got to our place for the night – Loch Shieldaig in Loch Gairloch. We tied up to one of the mooring buoys for visitors rather dropping our anchor. Solid moorings, run by the Highland Harbour Council and used by fishing boats during winter and off season.
A marvellous spot, quiet and peaceful. Few uninhabited leisure boats left alone on long term moorings, otherwise nobody there. We are the only visiting yacht. The traditional four star lodge framing the bay has got some business. Mentally, we more and more start to arrive in this part of the world and acknowledge its beauty.
We decided to stay two nights just to have enough time to absorb before moving on.
It was Titti 🚴♂️ Time and I got the bike out for a short ride to the local nearby beaches. Seeing them through the binocular from the sea side does not reveal the complete beauty of these sandbanks going deep into the river beds. Compared to Asia, these beaches here are unspoiled and without plenty of rubbish flying around.
The weather is playing with us at the moment apart from the light winds.