It was a nice mixed week, weather wise and activity wise. They both go hand in and nowadays. The sunny days allowed us to test our new drysuit on short trips within the harbour boundaries keeping the rescue boat at arm’s length. It feels very comfortable and much safer paddling in this catwalk matching design and quality marked dress. Water temperature is around 8°C by now, air temperature slighly below that not including chill. One layer of Woolpower 200 makes it warm and cosy under the Gore-Tex skin. Optimization on feet and hands ongoing.

Cracking my mind was required to get into the saddle for a ride. I hesitated a lot but once out there it soon felt being back in paradise. Additional motivation was granted by Erik the Viking, jogging towards my way. His stature of a Viking appeared to me broader than half of the shared track but we got along nicely.

Puzzling was also his outfit, short pans and shirt! Not a sign of any irritation in his warm and trustworthy face. I pushed myself harder to get warmer.

Arriving in Kalle Vestre – heaven on earth – I met Eline. She was out getting the studded winter tyres onto her car. We had a very nice chat and I learned more about this fascinating place consisting of four houses. The horses where out for a ride. While our voices started shivering it was time to move on, heading back. At the time I made it to the sauna, my toes were without any other feeling left except  sweet pain. The rest of the body was wet and dirty outside but dry and warm inside. Looking forward to the next bike ride through this wild, mystic, partly alien looking scenery.

A daytrip by Bus – Ferry – Bus – Havila Voyages took us to the Hurtigruten Museum in Stokmarknes, where it all began in 1893, by coincident the same year Frifjof Nansen set off with his Fram Expedition to reach the North Pole.

The museum not only incorporates the complete shipping line’s history exhibited inside and around of the life-size MS Finnmark built by Blohm & Voss AG in 1956. The visitor also get an impression about travelling in 1993, the year this vessel was taken out of service.

It also becomes evident, that this unique shipping line remains close to the heart of the Norwegian people. Havila Polaris, one of the most modern vessels operating on the Hurtigruten Express Way today, took us back to Svolvær, via Raftsund and Trollfjord. 

Gjæva Island on passage from Stokmarknes to the Raftsund, taken from aboard of Havila Polaris.

Under nautical twilight conditions, we entered the Trollfjord. The Captain decides on the spot, if the entry will be done or not, weather depending. We were lucky, even seeing one of the sea eagles, large in its size and majestic in its movement. Impressive. Back in Svolvær, we were still a bit puzzled.

Fair winds…