Trip 2007: Øresund/DK
This year was one of the best. Weather, wind, boat and its crew were bond to each other like never before. Sure, most of the time we had sun (only two rain showers in four weeks!) and the wind was mainly coming from the right direction (only twice a few hours beating because of headwinds). Another reason is, that we are getting more and more familiar with the boat, especially when it comes to mooring in the harbours. In the past we were very often pretty stressed, especially when there was a little wind, but now, we almost enjoy approaching crowded little marinas to get even better with our manoeuvres.
As usual, Hullu Poro was ready when we arrived. Mast was up, boom and boom vang attached, new batteries were installed and charged, etc. All we had to do was getting our luggage on board together with the provisions, water tank filled and water system commissioned and the sails attached; in less than twelve hours we were ready to go. After one of the few rain showers we left Augustenborg under a rainbow. The engine started without grumble and per SMS we were already in contact with Te-Habenga, who was on her way from Gelting to Kalvø. Wind was moderate and just perfect for the first day again under sun and sail. Suddenly we were on collision course with Te-Habenga, who tacked last minute to send us an “Ahoi” and we looked at eight enthusiastic sailors with smiling faces enjoying the sea.
I have recognised that at the beginning of our holidays we tend to anchor rather than going into a marina. It must be linked to the deep desperation to get some really calm time, far away from any hectic, cars and civilisation. This normally changes later during the period of the trip when the attempt to stay away from any land is not that great anymore. So, same procedure this year, we arrived in the Genner Bugt and dropped the anchor just in front of the Kalvø harbour on four meters depth. We needed a second attempt as the anchor was dragging over the ground. The weather forecast indicated increased winds from Northwest and therefore it was even more important to have it properly fixed in the muddy ground.
In the meantime Te-Habenga with crew has arrived as well and came alongside for the sundowner. After some drinks with snacks and a lot talking, we decided to have barbecue ashore and our party was interrupted instantly. Probably better, as we found the Absolut Mandrin very tasty. Te-Habenga shifted to the marina for the luxury of “walk on mooring” and we got our Dinghy ready within 15 minutes as we were all hungry by that time. The weather forecast was correct. The wind increased and we spent two nights in Kalvø, before heading off with tailwinds to Lyø. The wind was around 5-6 Beaufort, in gusts 7, and Te-Habenga’s crew decided to wait another day before casting off.
Arriving in Lyø we tossed the anchor next to the harbour and our understanding was that we get good protection from the Northwest behind the hook. As the hook is without any trees, only sand, it was clear that we should only get shelter from the waves but not from the wind, which is fine. However, even close to the land, it was very bumpy but the anchor went down and carved its way into the sand. The cross bearing taken confirmed, no dragging! The whitecaps were swinging Hullu Poro around so that we enjoyed the panorama view without moving the heads - maybe we should get an anchor sail one day. We gained a lot of confidence in our ground tackle during that day/night and hoisted the anchor early morning with sunrise, as we had a long leg ahead of us, direction Southeast.
We arrived late in the afternoon in Heiligenhafen, a place Susan and myself know for many years as we have spent some of our vacations in that area years back. We strolled around in town and were not very impressed. This, not only because there is no Internet facility in the city, but also, that we found the character of that place appears not very cosy, especially not comparing it with Danish experience. Anyway, we left early next morning towards Suetel, where we met some family members and stayed a few days.
In the past we went fishing a lot in the area of the Fehmarnsund Bridge. It is a place famous for its good fishing grounds. Therefore my fishing rod went out with the best wobbler available and ...... yes, got it! Almost got it. The photo to the right shows how it would have looked like, in case ...... The left photo has been taken by Susan, while I was fighting with this marvellous sea trout. I made the catch of my life but lost it at the pushpit, unfortunately it was falling outboard and not inboard.
We arrived in Suetel with some drizzle and a stranded yacht next to the buoyed waterway, which is partly very narrow and could cause some concerns with strong south-eastern winds. It is always sad to be close to such an incident, sailor’s nightmare. The positive side of this incident is, that one day later professionals came and got the boat afloat again. Even though it will need a lot of rework, I could imagine sailor’s smiling face after hours of depressiveness.
The days in Suetel were passing quickly. We anchored in the middle of the lake on two and a half meters depth only and were surrounded by Jetski and Waterski enthusiasts “all day” enjoying water sport in a different way. We took Anke, Frank & Jimmy for a day sailing, went for a swim and just relaxed together with people we do not see very often. We enjoyed late breakfast and trained our risible muscle when Jimmy presented his latest jokes. Initially our Dinghy was on heavy duty but laziness came along and we ordered the well known longtail shuttle service of Seeadler.
We wanted to do more sailing at that point in time and had also in mind to meet back with Te-Habenga somewhere on the way to Copenhagen. Therefore we set sail around noon for a long leg heading north. With sunset we approached Gedser and passed around the southern tip of Falster. We decided to sail through the night further north in order to arrive early morning in Klintholm on Møn. There was nothing spectacular during the night apart from the shining lights from the Ocean liners following the Kadet Rende and the moon reflecting his light on the waves, which at one point in time brought a huge fishing flag very close to Hullu Poro. Overall it was a quite night with starry sky and only few alarms from the radar. With first daylight we arrived in Klintholm and were surprised about the high number of boats in the harbour. We did expect much less at this time of the year, where peak summer vacation is over but maybe these are the signs of a currently booming industry. We were too tired to manoeuvre around in the marina and end up as number four in a package and therefore decided to berth in the fishing harbour for a few hours and then later on warp back into the marina.
Another long leg took us up north into the Øeresund to Dragør. It was beautiful sailing again, passing Møn’s Klint early in the morning with blue sky and some haze on top of the cliffs with a sailing boat underneath it. We stayed away from the shore in order to get a comprehensive view on the full length of this impressive stretch of land:
Sailing close to another “Traffic Separation Scheme”, we were surprised, how easy some people interpret rule number ten and just cross as it comes to their mind. This was not only experienced down here, even worse further north between Helsingør/DK and Helsingborg/SE.
We arrived in Dragør late afternoon with a quite strong current setting north in front of the harbour. With a correction angle of around 30 degree we moved into the old part of the harbour. It is amazing how close together old and new is in this place, which gives it somehow a special character. You can really feel the history here and it is not difficult to imagine the days, when Dragør used to be an important harbour in terms of trade but also in terms of piloting the maritime traffic in this congested area. Turning your head around you see the International Airport of Copenhagen with two big aircraft alone from Singapore Airlines ready to take off. This part of the Baltic is an amazing place, very active and very attractive to me. It is also in Dragør, where Bjorn Larsson’s book the “The Celtic Ring” starts and takes you up to Scotland, a very thrilling book to be recommended for long cold evenings during winter season.
It was clear to me, stopping in Copenhagen means, you need to berth in Ny Havn. Our plan was to be there around ten in the morning by when hopefully some people have left giving space for new arrivals. It worked, we got a place in Ny Havn and enjoyed to be close to the city. Approaching Copenhagen is rather fascinating with all the traffic and navigational marks. You see the five star Ocean liners coming in the morning, spitting out 3000 visitors for a few hours and leaving same evening. Some even stay over night. You also see some Megayachts, where you simply wonder what the purpose is of having such a boat and you compare it with the old fashioned royal yacht of her majesty Quenn Magaret of Denmark. Small boats are coming out in the evening after work just for strolling around and bypassing the waterfronts. If you are not careful you end up in a regatta field of 49ers or Optimists. This is all on the water but also in terms of architecture, Copenhagen is doing its homework. You see the modern Opera House and the old but refurbish buildings. New developments are coming up where Tuborg Havn is only one of them. Copenhagen is multicultural and definitely a very attractive place to life and work; maybe one day......
We sailed further north, this time with the current setting south and close to the wind. Some beating was required. After passing the Swedish island Ven, we had Helsingør in front of us, where we stopped for the day. Initially we were undetermined, if we should go for a stop in Helsingborg/Sweden, but then decided to stay on the Danish side of the Øeresund all way long. In Helsingør there is free internet access through wireless, which convinced us to stay a few hours longer and check our mails and make some phone calls through Skype.
We still had a lot of time and Susan’s wish was back to Anholt, as this is her preferred Island in the Baltic Sea. So we slowly crawled along the cost, had a quick stop in Hornbæk to buy some of the best smoked fish in Denmark, rested in an overnight stay in Gilleleje and then jumped across towards Anholt. After a few hours calm wind but small waves (which can drive you crazy), the wind was increasingly coming back and we started our “cruise in the tradewinds”. Some depression hit us for a few days and we became more and more lazy every day. We virtually did nothing on Anholt apart from barbecue, reading, swimming in the sea, relaxing. Some of the yachts went out, some of them came back because the gale was underestimated, others made their way. We could have stayed another few weeks but time did not allow. I wanted to go back same way through the Øeresund to enjoy it once again, Susan was rather for heading towards Samsø, which we have done a few times by now and I felt it less exciting. We finally went back the same way, had another beautiful day “cruising in tradewinds”. If you look at these photos, you believe that the trade winds have reached the Baltic Sea! Look at it, and you believe Hullu Poro is sailing within the trade winds. Yes, okay, the height of the waves might be a little bit lower but the wind direction, wind speed and the pattern of the clouds are comparable to the trade wind zone. Amazing, unfortunately it stopped already in Helsingør!
The way back went pretty straight forward. We stopped in Helsingør again, because of the internet access, moved on to Kalkbrænderi Havn, because we wanted to see some more harbours around Copenhagen. We had a look at the Danboat 2007, which took place in the new Tuborg Havn. This place makes working and living perfect, if you want to stay close to your boat. It presents the new Danish Maritime Lifestyle City.
The weather forecast promises good winds to go further south and then west heading back to Augustenborg and therefore we proceeded after only one day in this area of high quality of living. It was the beep of the barometer alarm, which kicked our backs out of the bed at 5:22am but we wanted to leave early anyway. There are two alarms set on the marine barometer, the light version to 1mbar pressure drop in 1hour and the stronger version, which is per default 4mbar over 3 consecutive hours. This morning it was the light version of the alarm. We started the engine even before breakfast as we planned to motor for the first 10miles because of the expected headwinds within the very congested and busy area around Copenhagen and the Øresund. However, the sunrise was marvellous and the spirit good. After a while, the wind was increasing but from the right direction and we moved quickly towards Klintholm. The sea was very impressive but I do not want to give any indications of wave height as it is very difficult to judge. Have a look to the photos and you will see.
From Klintholm we sailed all the way to Svendborg, which was another long leg and beautiful sailing. Initially it was bumpy but once we have reached the protected area of Småland we were just flying along. We had a heavy rain shower just in front of Langeland and the visibility went down to zero. We appreciate our radar, which increases safety under such conditions significantly. From Svendborg it took us straight to Augustenborg, winds were light and we took the chance to start with the clean up of stuff while gliding back to our homeport.
After 4 weeks and 622sm on the clock, the boat is now back in the shed since 24.08.2007. Click here for this year’s detailed log.